Hyeres international fashion and photography festival 2018
In April The Sustainable Angle was introduced by Katarina Rimarcikova at ALIGN Creative Studio to the Hyeres fashion festival, a unique International fashion platform and talent showcase, created and led by Villa Noailles Director Jean-Pierre Blanc for over thirty years. Every Spring in the last week in April, the Festival spotlights promising artists in the fields of fashion and photography. It features diverse exhibitions, professional panel discussions and competitions, which showcase ten photographers, ten fashion designers, and ten accessories designers selected by the jury.
Since 1986, this International event has gathered an ever- growing crowd of influential industry insiders, seeking to talent spot and support emerging creatives in fashion and photography from the best international schools.
Situated in the 1920’s hilltop sanctuary Villa Noailles, the rich creative history and spirit of the art loving philanthropists who commissioned this building continues, offering an opportunity to the competition winners, by awarding substantial prizes and on-going support from established industry partners, such as LVMH, Chloe and Chanel, Premiere Vision and Eyes on Talents.
The Hyeres Festival features activities, exhibitions, installations, concerts, films, conferences, networking opportunities, showrooms, workshops, fashion shows and awards ceremonies.
Thought provoking conferences on the relationship between real space and virtual retail, and the future implications of the development of A.I and how the place of I.P within the traditional ‘creator’ model may be shifting, took place. Tim Blanks, from the Business of Fashion interviewed the creative team in charge of the new Galeries Lafayette, set to open in 2018 in the Champs- Elysees, Paris which will have as a focus more responsible fashion. Exactly how this will be implemented and defined was left open.
‘If fashion has any honey pot it is surely Hyères, which manages to attract a unique blend of hipster stars, clever insiders, cabinet ministers, curious CEOs and a new generation of talent. And it is the latter which in turns lures another unique blend – a selection of sponsors that can vary from upper echelon Chanel; crystal manufacturer Swarovski; Premiere Vision, the world’s leading fabric fair based in Paris; fashion college Marangoni and, this season, Supima, the hyper quality American cotton that is grown in the desserts of the American South West.’ April 30th 2018 Godfrey Deeny Fashion Network
An exhibition of designers including Nicolas Ghesquière, Jun Takahashi and Azzedine Alaïa, was curated by Haider Ackermann who presides over the Grand Prize of the Jury Première Vision. The Bettina Rheims exhibition, a series of iconic pictures that she took for Details Magazine between 1994 and 1997, when Bill Mullen was fashion director, The two partnered on the jury for photography.
Christelle Kocher, artistic director of the House of Lemarié, laid four and a half metres of white cotton cloth out, inviting guests to co-create delicate flower collages from rhinestones, feathers, silk, cotton, rhodoid and sequins. Successful crafters of a section received a numbered certificate!
There were only a few designers working with sustainable materials, namely finalists to the Grand jury prize:
Linda Kokkonen working with upcycled lace and leather. Jef Montes working with recycled nylon from old cars and fishing nets. Thibaut Rodde and Sandrine Pachecus crafted sunglasses made from old bones from wild animals found in the woods, and using unwanted dead olive trees grown in the region.
The grand 15,000 euros prize was awarded to Antwerp based designers Rushemy Botter & Lisi Herrebrugh for their collection ‘Fish Or Fight’ the duo took inspiration from their shared Caribbean roots, observing the fishermen whose large colourful nets, worn slung over the shoulder, were translated into draped coats and separates. The duo were nominated for the 2018 LVMH Prize earlier this year, and will also collaborate on a project with Chanel’s Métiers d’Art. Mercedes-Benz will also invite the duo to show during Berlin Fashion Week’s Spring 2019 collections in July.
Toulouse-native Ester Manas, developed a coquetish and colourful collection of plus-size womenswear, and was selected by Galeries Lafayette to produce a capsule collection, wanted to create “a complete wardrobe made to simultaneously protect and reveal the wearer.”
Canadian designer Marie-Ève Lecavalier received an Honourable Mention from the Jury for her MA collection entitled ‘Come Get Trippy With Us’. Lecavalier worked with thick leathers, left over and rejected from production and recycled denims. ‘I think it’s important to make things by hand,’ she said. ‘I think this attitude is coming back and that’s exciting.’She was also awarded the Chloe Prize for her plaited leather and diamante dress, which embodied a return to making things special again; towards a consciousness of consumption.
The Swarovski Fashion Accessories Grand Prize of the Jury went to product designers Flora Fixy and Julia Dessirier who re- imagined the design of hearing devices. Their project ‘H(Earring)’ sits at the junction between medicine and fashion, bestowing this medical device with a lyrical and contemporary fashion appeal. ‘Fashion is an amplifier for socio-political issues. Our jewellery is first an answer to the user’s needs, but it is a political tool too,’ the designers said.
Last year’s grand prize winner Vanessa Schindler returned to Hyères with a collection developed in partnership with Chanel’s Maison Lesage. Her work uses liquid polyurethane to secure layers of luxuriously feminine fabrics, lending her outfits a futuristic edge.
The Maison Berluti, part of the LVMH group that celebrates 20 years collaborating with the Festival, will be this edition’s guest of honour for the fashion section while Haider Ackermann, headed up the jury composed of fashion historian Farid Chenoune; Jefferson Hack, Co-founder of Dazed Media London; filmmaker, actress and model Farida Khelfa; jewellery designer Delfina Delettrez Fendi; artist Lou Doillon; Ben Gorham, founder and artistic director of Byredo Stockholm; actress Tilda Swinton; fashion designer Vanessa Schindler, winner of the Fashion’s Grand Prix Première Vision in Hyères in 2017.
The jury met in Paris at the MAD – Musée des Arts Décoratifs, and selected the ten finalists among 300 candidates from 60 countries:
Marie-Eve Lecavalier – Womenswear – Canada
Ester Manas – Womenswear – France
Linda Kokkonen – Womenswear – Finland
Jef Montes – Womenswear – Holland
Ela Fidalgo – Womenswear – Spain
Antonia Sedakova – Menswear – Russia
Rushemy Botter – Menswear – Holland
Regina Weber – Womenswear – Germany
Anna Isoniemi – Womenswear – Finland
Sarah Bruylant – Womenswear – Belgium
The jury of the Accessories section, presided over by Christelle Kocher, artistic director of the Maison Lemarié and founder of Koche, was composed of artist Bernard Frize; journalist Leaf Greener; Hirofumi Kurino, co-founder and creative advisor of United Arrows Tokyo; Michele Lamy of Muse London; Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel founder and designer di Mansur Gavriel; Brune de Margerie, fashion director of Elle France; Nicole Phelps, director of Vogue Runway; designer Elie Top; stylist Charlotte Stockdale of Chaos Fashion; and Marina Chedel, fashion accessories designer and winner of the Jury Grand Prix Accessoires de mode Swarovski in Hyères in 2017. The jury selected the finalists of the Fashion Accessories section:
Sari Räthel & Riccarda Wolf – jewellery – Germany
Claire O’Keefe & Eugenia Oliva – jewellery – Spain
Ildar Wafin – jewellery – Finland
Jinah Jung – bags – Korea
Sara Emilie Terp Hansen – bags – Danimarca
Kate Fichard, Flora Fixy & Julia Dessirier – auditive jewellery – France
Ludovic Leger – bags – France
Romain Delamart & Flora Langlois – bags – France
Cécile Gray – jewellery – France
Inès Bressand – bag – France.