Diversifying the Fibre Basket with PYRATES smart fabrics
Our current global textile fibre demand is lacking in diversity and dominated by two unsustainable raw materials: conventionally grown cotton and non- renewable fossil fuel based synthetics. Cotton accounts for almost a quarter of that demand, (with only around 1% of world demand currently organically farmed). Non- renewable petrochemical based synthetics account for two-thirds of global fibre demand. The environmental impacts of these two raw materials alone are catastrophic, and well-documented.
To move away from our reliance upon these two main fibre sources, we need to urgently rethink our relationship with the resources that provide our material needs, and actively engage in positive sourcing and practices that diversify our fibre basket and limit and tackle waste streams intelligently.
Each raw material source and processing chain has its own set of considerations and issues when identifying preferred fibres and sourcing best practice suppliers in specific fibre categories. Limiting the fashion industry’s reliance upon virgin materials sources can help reduce many of the impacts associated with our industry. By using different species of plants and animals for our raw material needs, and with careful regional consideration, fashion can avoid the over-exploitation of our resources and contribute to restoring biodiversity. In fact, fashion can benefit creatively from the sustainable and responsible use of nature’s existing diversity and balance.
Choosing operations that use processing innovations and take a responsible position on how we balance and manage our precious resources can help sustain our planetary boundaries. Headquartered in Spain and with factories in Italy, Spain and Portugal, PYRATES is a R&D company and textile supplier who offers a diversified portfolio of fibres and has recently joined our Future Fabrics Expo. PYRATES specialises in the manufacture of PYRATEX®, a collection of luxury knitted fabrics made from organic, upcycled, or biodegradable fibres which consume less water, energy or CO2 during the production process. Depending on their fibre content, blends and/or treatments, PYRATEX® collections are categorised under various categories such as “PYRATEX® health”, “PYRATEX® freshness”, “PYRATEX® cosmetic”, “PYRATEX® bio”, and “PYRATEX® upcycled”. All PYRATEX® fabrics are manufactured in Europe, in order to manage a fully traceable supply chain.
PYRATEX® lowers their environmental impact by selecting sustainable fibres and creating innovative blends. For example, in the PYRATEX® bio and upcycled categories, TENCEL® fibers with REFIBRA® technology are also used in blends. REFIBRA® is a process created by Lenzing Group that mixes pulp containing cotton scraps left over from cutting operations and wood, into the lyocell production process. GOTS certified organic cotton is also often used, which reduces fertiliser emissions, energy use, and requires less irrigation, therefore sustaining soil health and human health, by avoiding toxic chemicals. Recycled PET bottles are also seen in the “upcycled” category.
PYRATES’ innovative research can also be seen in the unique treatments of their fabrics. Fabrics are finished with vapour rather than chemicals, which means active components are embedded into the fabric rather than injected or added, therefore preserving their properties. For example, the PYRATEX® cosmetic category features fabrics that are gentle for the skin and anti-irritating. Seacell fibres (a USDA certified bio based that contains seaweed with anti-irritation properties) are blended with GOTS certified organic cotton (which are free from chemical pesticides) or Standard 100 Oeko-Tex Certified TENCEL® fibres.
PYRATEX® fabrics comply with EU REACH regulations, which are adopted by companies to improve the protection of human health and the environment from risks posed by chemicals. The PYRATES factory based in Italy also has its own Tessile e Salute certification which deals with toxicology in Textile and Fashion sectors by monitoring and evaluating the various phases of the entire production chain. It is clear that Pyrates has a strong focus when it comes to lowering the chemical impact in the fashion industry.
By reducing water pollution, eliminating dumping and minimising the release of hazardous chemicals and materials, as well as increasing recycling and safe reuse within their fabric production process, PYRATES is committed to improving water quality and tackling Goal 6 of the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals: Clean Water and Sanitation, as well as Goal 12: Responsible Consumption and Production.
“The fashion industry needs a radical change. We believe the most pressing environmental and social challenge we are facing in the industry is climate change,” says PYRATES. “We want to contribute to advancing the functionality of textiles to suit our current needs while using natural, recycled or biodegradable fibers, and more sustainable techniques.”
PYRATES have developed a formula so that they can scale the fabrics into commercially viable materials which can be easily integrated into any brand’s collections.
When asked what their goals and plans are moving forward, PYRATES says, “We are continuously working towards advancing our fabrics through our R&D, and our main goal is to ensure that our fabric range is ethical, which is why we only launched the production of material that our client requires, and sell our in-stock fabrics from just 1m, to avoid creating any unnecessary waste. We also offer our clients the option of working with natural dyes, which are a more sustainable alternative to reactive dyes, and are constantly researching innovative, eco-friendlier alternatives, such as substituting the elastane in some of our more sportswear-focused fabrics with recycled elastane.”
Discover PYRATEX® on the Future Fabrics Virtual Expo, which will be free to access between 1st July-8th July during Future Fabrics Virtual Expo LIVE week.
Catch our conversation with PYRATES on 2nd July, 2020, 3:00 PM BST on Instagram LIVE. For more events, register here.
