
The 10th Future Fabrics Expo: source from thousands of textiles with a low environmental impact and discover sustainable solutions for a responsible fashion future.
Join us at the 10th Future Fabrics Expo and be part of the movement galvanising positive change for the future of fashion! The Expo has expanded to include even MORE best practice suppliers.
The fashion and textile industries are currently responsible for significant impacts upon planet and people. However, fashion can and should be part of the solution, representing a powerful force for positive change by following regenerative design principles and a circular systems approach. These themes take centre stage in the materials sourcing showcase, echoed by our dynamic Seminar Series.
Discover how our fibres are grown and materials are made in relation to their impacts upon climate, biodiversity, soil and the oceans. Learn about the critical imperative to source responsibly, operate within planetary boundaries in order to address climate change, secure sustainable supply chains and align with the Sustainable Development Goals.
Explore the extensive Innovation Space, Information Zone and Curated Installations which spotlight positive solutions, all contextualised with educational information, including thousands of textiles across all fibre categories, providing commercially available alternatives to polluting conventional materials.
For announcements and updates on guest speakers at the 10th Future Fabrics Expo, sign up to our mailer via our website and follow us on social media. Our seminar programme features diverse voices from experts around the world, including key thought leaders, innovators, industry insiders, textile producers and designers.
GENERAL ADMISSION TICKET ONE DAY 28th JUNE:
Register for a ticket on Future Fabrics Virtual Expo here
GENERAL ADMISSION TICKET ONE DAY 29th JUNE:
Register here for the 10th Future Fabrics Expo
PREMIUM TICKET FOR TWO DAYS 28th and 29th JUNE:
*Please note Premium ticket holders must be seated at least 5 minutes before the start of each seminar otherwise reserved seats will be released to the general public.
Register here for the 10th Future Fabrics Expo
STUDENT TICKET FOR 29th JUNE AFTER 2pm**
** Please note that student tickets will be released closer to the event date. Student ID required at the entrance
Register here for the 10th Future Fabrics Expo
Location Details: Magazine London, 11 Ordnance Crescent, Greenwich, London, SE10 0JH
Nearest tube station: North Greenwich – Jubilee line.

LOCATION AND TRANSPORT LINKS:
We are trying to limit the amount of waste produced by our expo. We would appreciate your cooperation with the following:
We look forward to seeing you there!
For further information, contact us at info@thesustainableangle.org
Can’t make it to the 10th Future Fabrics Expo? You can also book a Future Fabrics Expo tailored workshop in our London Showroom by emailing us to info@thesustainableangle.org
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Find out more about the last #FutureFabricsExpo held in January 2020, and see photos and videos here.
www.futurefabricsvirtualexpo.com
#FutureFabricsExpo #MaterialsRevolution
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Press:
Please contact temi@thesustainableangle.org
Rewatch 9th Future Fabrics Expo 2020 Video Highlights

To inquire about exhibiting, please email info@thesustainableangle.org
10TH FUTURE FABRICS EXPO
AT MAGAZINE LONDON
28-29 JUNE 2022, LONDON UK

We are excited to announce that the 10th Future Fabrics Expo will be held in an impressive new, larger, state of the art venue 28-29th June 2022!
As we emerge from the Pandemic in this climate critical decade, the imperative to implement action for positive change becomes ever more urgent. We are thrilled to finally be able to build upon the collective excitement that was experienced at the 9th Future Fabrics Expo in 2020.
In order to respond effectively to the challenges of the climate and biodiversity crises – and due to an unprecedented participation response from our partners, suppliers and innovators, we decided to relocate to a new, more expansive London venue. This will allow us to create more space to showcase the solutions, tools and innovations in textiles and materials that will enable us to support a restorative, regenerative future fashion industry that places planet, people and prosperity for all as the central objective.
As always, the exhibitors and textiles on display are contextualised with open-source educational resources throughout the Future Fabrics Expo.
Our new space, Magazine London, is a stunning purpose-built exhibition venue with excellent transport links and close to central London (13min to Westminster), offering 3,205 square metres of versatile interior exhibition space. It also boasts a state-of-the-art livestream and audio provision which will allow us to seamlessly deliver our dynamic and highly popular seminar series, featuring the voices of global thought leaders and industry vanguards again directly into the Expo experience.
The 10th Future Fabrics Expo will be our largest and most ambitious showcase to date, featuring many more new exhibitors, booths and innovators, all exemplifying effective sustainable solutions throughout the textile supply chain. The 10th Expo will also have a stronger digital dimension, integrated with our Future Fabrics VIRTUAL Expo, seamlessly connecting the physical materials sourcing to our online platform via QR codes. Visitors will also be able to access talks and panel discussions from our popular Seminar Series via the VIRTUAL Expo.
As the largest dedicated sustainable materials showcase our platform offers a unique opportunity to be part of the solution and connect with suppliers, brands, and businesses, facilitating interaction with global and local organisations who place sustainability at the top of their agenda, all in our uniquely curated showcase.

LOCATION AND TRANSPORT LINKS:
ABOUT THE VENUE:
Magazine London https://magazinelondon.co.uk/
Is located close to the iconic O2 Arena, with spectacular views of London skyline and Canary Wharf, part of London’s central business district. It is also close to the new Design District, comprising sixteen buildings by eight pioneering architects as a permanent home for the creative industries.
ADDRESS:
Magazine London, 11 Ordnance Crescent, Greenwich, London, SE10 0JH.
Rewatch 9th Future Fabrics Expo 2020 Video Highlights

To inquire about exhibiting, please email info@thesustainableangle.org
SAVE THE DATE Over the last ten years, The Sustainable Angle’s annual Future Fabrics Expo has become the largest dedicated sustainable sourcing showcase. Modelled on our successful 9th Expo in January 2020, the physical 10th Future Fabrics Expo will include 10,000+ materials and solutions displayed, feature exhibitors, show an Innovation Hub, and curated displays dedicated to special themes, plus the popular Seminar Series which accompanies the Expo. Future Fabrics Expo is your one-stop shop for sourcing sustainably and responsibly produced materials, with each material accompanied with sustainability background information.
The 10th Future Fabrics Expo will take place on 28-29 June 2022 at Magazine London in London, UK, with more additional exhibitor space, an expanded seminar space, and increased capacity.
The physical event is designed to also cater to the strong digital dimension, integrated with our Future Fabrics VIRTUAL Expo platform.
For more details about 10th Future Fabrics Expo and to register your ticket, click here.
Rewatch 9th Future Fabrics Expo 2020 Video Highlights


To inquire about exhibiting, please email info@thesustainableangle.org
We are excited to be taking over #TheLabE20 as curators of the space for the entire month of November 2021 to coincide with COP26.
The Lab will focus on the most pressing concerns of our times, illustrating, informing, and exemplifying the overarching themes of CLIMATE, WASTE, and REGENERATION via visionary organisations, educational resources, workshops, talks and physical interaction with making, digital media and the discovery of innovations that are poised to change our wasteful and extractive relationship with our material world.
The creative hub of The Lab E20 intends to inspire and inform the local community, uniting and underscoring the relationships between food and fashion, waste, materiality, and climate change, offering experiences and insights into the possibilities and opportunities for a positive future.
Stay tuned for more information on this dynamic showcase of fashion-led physical and digital creative content!

BEHIND THE SEAMS
THURS 4 NOV, 7:30PM
Join the panel with local designer Stuart Tingini from Molini London, Joey Pringle Founder of Veshin Factory and Diana Kakkar Founder from MAES London on ethical manufacturing moderated by Katarina Rimarcikova. No booking required.
SEW WHAT?!
SAT 6 NOV – SUN 7 NOV, 11AM & 4PM DAILY (MORE SLOTS TO BE ANNOUNCED)
Save the Planet at your fingertips with a giant live game of ‘Sew What’ – the first mobile game informing players about sustainable fashion and join our fabric hunt. No booking required.
INFANTIUM VICTORIA – THE STORY OF A GOTS SEED
SAT 6 NOV – SUN 7 NOV, 2PM DAILY
Join Dinie van Heuel, founder of sustainable childrenswear brand Infantium Victoria, for a screening of their stopmotion film on the fascinating journey of a cotton seed. No booking required.
FIBRE LAB SHREDDING DEMONSTRATIONS
SAT 6 NOV – SUN 7 NOV, 2PM DAILY
Join FibreLab’s founder Kaela Katz for live demonstrations of fibre shredding. No booking required.
POST CARBON LAB
SAT 6 NOV, SAT 13 NOV, SAT 20 NOV, SAT 27 NOV, 10AM-5PM
An opportunity to speak with the team from Post Carbon Lab about their research on climate anxiety and their innovative, photosynthesizing material. No booking required.
WEAVING WORKSHOPS
SAT 13 NOV, 11AM, 2PM & 4PM DAILY
Bring your own unwanted T-shirts for a DIY weaving workshop with designer Rahemur Rahman and hear more about his COP26 installation with Fashion Open Studio. No booking required.
WASTE NOT WANT NOT
WED 10 NOV, 7:30PM
A panel with Jen Charon from Loanhood, Dottie Allan from Hackney Council and Laetitia Forst from the Centre for Sustainable Fashion at London College of Fashion. No booking required.
MEET IFEANYI OKWUADI
SUN 21st NOV 2pm
Meet the Designer with Ifenanyi Okwuadi: Join Menswear designer Ifeanyi Okwuadi, winner of the 2021 Hyeres International Festival of Fashion Grand Jury Prize. Ifeanyi will explain his perspective on embedding sustainability in his thinking, working process and how he incorporates Savile Row tailoring practices.
CANCELLED CIRCULARITY & BIOMATERIAL INNOVATION
Unfortunately, we regret to inform you that we have had to cancel the Circularity & Biomaterial innovation event due to one of our speakers testing positive for COVID.
Circularity & Biomaterial Innovation: Hannes Schoenegger, co-creator of innovative new material Bananatex and accessories brand Qwstion will be joined by the founder of the Dian-Jen Lin in conversation with Nina Marenzi, founder and Director of The Sustainable Angle.
SUSTAINABLE ADVENTURES
THURS 25 NOV, 7:30
Join Sophia Scott from groundbreaking materials innovators and accessories brand Groundtruth, filmmaker James Levelle and Christopher Raeburn, founder of RAEBURN, in conversation with strategist & journalist Yasmin Jones-Henry.
GROUNDTRUTH FILM SCREENING WITH Q&A
FRI 26 NOV, 7:30PM
Join Madeline St Clair and the founders of Groundtruth for a screening of their new film, first premiered during COP26, around Sophia Scott’s expedition to Greenland with Team UMIAQ. No booking required.
POST CARBON LAB’S CLIMATE ANXIETY RESEARCH SCREENING
SAT 27 NOV 4PM
In sync with COP26’s climate topic, Post Carbon Lab has been conducting research around climate anxiety, climate action & fashion involving local residents & youths during The Lab E20 exhibition. This occasion is for you to hear how others perceive climate emergencies and share what you think about the age we live in to aid our research.
At the end of the screening, you can also actively take part in the research and we’ll give away an upcycled cushion made from plastic waste to one lucky participant.
WORKSHOP BY JESSE LEE
SUN 28 NOV 4PM
Join a fun, chilled DIY workshop with Redress Design Award alumnus, Jesse Lee where you will learn 2-3 easy stitching techniques and how to apply them in a playful way to embellish your clothes. Bring along a garment or two that you are looking to refresh. With a focus on clothing longevity, Jesse’s recent work is inspired by the powerful simplicity of Picasso’s single line drawings and he aims to emulate this simplicity through animal portraits to prolong the life of clothes.
EXHIBITIONS
EVERY THURS – SUN, 10AM-5PM
Check out engaging and inspiring exhibitions throughout the month from: Bananatex, fabrics and bags made from banana (Abaca) leaves; Groundtruth, producing travel bags from 100% recycled plastic materials; Post Carbon Lab, biohacking and sustainability consultancy; Cassie Quinn, regenerative design studio; Molini London, luxury sustainable satin brand and Ifeanyi Okwuadi, a designer inspired by nuclear disarmament.
+ MANY MORE
We debuted our Paris edition of the Future Fabrics Expo from 23-28 September at La Caserne, Europe’s largest sustainable fashion accelerator hub.
The Expo featured a curated display of thousands of sustainable materials, alongside best-practice suppliers, and spotlighted the latest innovations around recycling technologies and regenerative agriculture.
Thank you to all those who attended our Future Fabrics Expo Paris edition! We welcomed many visitors ranging from luxury brands to high-street retailers to startups, and academics.
We were thrilled to have seen such a strong demand for the materials we showcased. The sheer intent, energy, and engagement exceeded our expectations. Visitors’ interest in reading the educational content we provided was heartening, from materials’ environmental impacts to the sustainability information of potential solutions.
Future Fabrics Expo in Paris was also part of the inauguration of La Caserne. Over the weekend we were part of The Conscious Festival by Green is the New Black.



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The Sustainable Angle will be showcasing a curated display of innovations and solutions from the Future Fabrics Expo at TED’s Countdown Summit with 1,000 leaders in Edinburgh, UK. COUNTDOWN is a global initiative to champion and accelerate solutions to the climate crisis, turning ideas into action. Countdown seeks to answer five fundamental, interconnected questions in the areas of Energy, Transport, Materials, Food and Nature, that help inform a blueprint for a cleaner future.
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The Sustainable Angle is pleased to announce the FUTURE FABRICS EXPO PARIS EDITION 2021, which will run from 23-28 September at La Caserne, Europe’s largest sustainable fashion accelerator hub. Our first-ever Paris edition will be part of the inauguration of La Caserne.
For the first time, the Future Fabrics Expo will feature in Paris as the key sustainable sourcing destination for designers and brands, offering a physical in-person showcase of thousands of materials, sustainability knowledge and innovative supplier insights. During the week, attendees will receive Premium Access to our digital platform, the Future Fabrics VIRTUAL EXPO, which hosts thousands of materials and informative resources online.
La Caserne is at 12 Rue Philippe de Girard, 75010, Paris, France
REGISTER FOR THE FUTURE FABRICS EXPO PARIS TODAY!
Private Viewing Dates
The Private Viewing dates are FREE to attend! Please simply register your interest via the link below. If you are unable to pre-register, you can also register at the door.
Thursday 23 September, 11:00-19:00
Friday 24 September, 9:30-12:00
Monday 27 September, 11:00-19:00
Tuesday 28 September, 11:00-17:00
SELECT A DATE AND REGISTER FOR FUTURE FABRICS EXPO PARIS >
During the weekend of 24th – 26th September from 12pm, Future Fabrics Expo will also be part of The Conscious Festival taking place at La Caserne. Hosted by Green is the New Black, this educational and festive event is available in a hybrid format. Click here to register for The Conscious Festival and find out more.
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🌍 EXPLORE the latest materials collections and sustainability initiatives from our featured mills and suppliers. Discover dedicated showcase booths featuring Lenzing’s TENCEL™ Lyocell and True Carbon Zero Initiative, Bananatex® textiles made from abaca plant fibres.
🌱 Dedicated area to the curated display “Nature-Positive: The Future for Fashion” supported by Kering, showing materials focused on biodiversity and working towards a nature-positive impact, and informational content around regenerative agriculture for fashion, soil health, and natural materials from production systems that incorporate wildlife friendly practices.
🔍 Browse thousands of sustainable materials from around the world in a diverse range of fibre categories such as materials from regenerative agriculture, agricultural waste, recycled natural materials, organic cottons, low impact wools and animal fibres, sustainable silks, linens, bast fibres, responsibly produced leather, innovative alternatives to animal skins, and Lenzing Group’s dedicated corner showcase of regenerated cellulosics, including TENCEL™ Lyocell and REFIBRA™ Technology.
🔬 Discover a curated display of speculative and commercially emerging innovations that present new material opportunities driving much needed change in our industry, towards a more sustainable and diverse materials future.
📱 Benefit from Premium access to the Future Fabrics VIRTUAL Expothroughout the duration of the event, with new and improved site features designed to enhance your online sourcing experience. Browse thousands of fabrics from our mills and suppliers and explore informative educational content and resources around sustainable fashion solutions. QR codes are attached to selected materials providing a seamless experience to our virtual platform for each textile.
⏰ Countdown with us online to the Paris Edition via Instagram Live from 14 – 16 September. Tune in online with us for conversations with featured mills and suppliers from our showcase, as we will be spotlighting their latest innovations, products and initiatives showcased in Paris.
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From the 22nd June – 2nd July 2021, we look forward to welcoming you to the Future Fabrics Expo 9½. It will be held in person at our spacious new showroom in London*. As we ease out of the pandemic restrictions, this interim Expo will be your key sustainable sourcing destination, offering a physical showcase of thousands of materials, sustainability knowledge, supplier insights, advice, and networking events.
For those who can’t join us in person, this physical showcase is accompanied by online panel discussions with experts and thought-leaders every day from 1PM – 2PM during the Expo. You will also be able to explore even more fabrics and newly launched features on our Future Fabrics VIRTUAL Expo that will enhance your online sourcing experience.
Future Fabrics Expo 9½ is aimed at supporting fashion professionals seeking to understand sustainability impacts and source a wide range of more responsibly-produced textiles and materials for a positive and responsible fashion future. All material qualities are supported with detailed sustainability information and contextual content.
REGISTER FOR THE FUTURE FABRICS EXPO 9-1/2 TODAY!
*COVID-19 social distancing measures and restrictions will still in place as per the UK government’s announcement yesterday. We are respecting all the government’s guidelines ensuring social distancing, controlled people flow and capacity in our showroom, as well as further measures include such as one-way flows, separate entry/exit arrangements, staggered access times, signage/crowd management, floor markings, with spaced out furniture for more flexible space.
Upon arrival, you will be directed to the sanitisers . Please also bring along a mask and wear it whilst in the building. Naturally, if you do show symptoms of COVID-19 or you recently had a positive test please do not attend.
We looking forward to seeing you!
WHAT TO EXPECT AT THE FUTURE FABRICS EXPO 9½:


This current emergency has given us all an opportunity to reimagine our industry, and to define what successful business really means for people and planet and work towards a responsible and positive relationship with our planet’s resources. Throughout our Materials Solutions Digital Masterclass Series we look forward to recovery from the global pandemic, both for our collective human health, and that of the planet.
The Materials Solutions Digital Masterclass Series seeks to inform and educate on the place of specific fibre categories in a preferred materials mix, and their important place in reshaping and creating a responsible, sustainable and restorative fashion industry.
This unprecedented global pandemic has forced us all to cease the relentless activity that the fashion industry demands of us, and has created space for us to pause, and reflect upon how our choices can contribute to new, responsible practices that must emerge from the current crisis.
Materials play a critical role in building a fashion industry that places people and planet as priorities, and the creation of equitable economic systems that replace the current unsustainable, polluting and waste generating model. The series is supported by key examples of commercially available qualities from our Virtual Expo and provides insights into our suppliers best practice materials.
This session frames our current materials landscape, and explores the crucial place of a diverse, responsibly created materials mix. The principles of regenerative design and other design thinking systems that can support and inform the creation of a responsible industry for the future will be discussed. Amanda Johnston gives an introduction to The Sustainable Angle’s environmental criteria and ‘9 to Define’ design and systems thinking approach to rationalising material and design. Carole Collet provides a breakdown of ‘Regenerative Design’ principles.
“A regenerative design attitude goes beyond reducing our impact and goes into repairing our ecosystem and our communities.” – Carole Collet
Conventional cotton is the most important natural fibre, accounting for a quarter of global fibre demand, and grown in intensively farmed unsustainable monocultures around the globe. With its roots in the slave trade, human rights abuses still pervade the supply chain of conventionally grown cotton. In this episode, learn how best practice cotton agricultural practices can transform the environmental and social impacts of this fibre, and its role in carbon sequestration. Attendees will gain an understanding of the critical impacts of this fibre, as well as which types of cotton to prioritise and why.
This session focuses on the under-explored bast category of stem fibres, harvested from flax, hemp, ramie, nettle, etc. and the new agriculturally harvested waste category of grown cellulose. The Sustainable Angle team and guest speakers will provide comprehensive knowledge of the properties and inherent sustainability credentials of the bast category of fibres. Additionally, viewers can discover how the ingenious use of cellulose from agricultural waste is reframing new material innovation of the future.
The use of animal fibres has a long history, offering complex structures and properties that man made fibres cannot replicate. However, land use, unethical practices and processing impacts, as well as environmental impacts as a result of intensive farming have raised essential questions. This session will provide insights and guidance into best practice initiatives for sourcing protein fibres.
As a man-made cellulose fibre, this category of cellulosics is an important fibre source. Its comfortable and absorbent properties are much sought after as an alternative to cotton. This episode provides understanding of the provenance and processing systems that enable best practice choices in this Regenerated Cellulosics. Viewers will discover the next generation of regenerated fibres poised to provide more diverse material sources.
From the middle of the twentieth century synthetic fibres have dominated our fibre landscape, and currently account for two thirds of global fibre demand. This episode provides understanding of the negative impacts of this non-renewable fibre source, as well as a breakdown of how our reliance upon this petroleum derived group of fibres needs to be re-focused. Guided by insights from our guest speaker, Steven Cheung, attendees can discover how recycling technologies can limit impacts and utilise waste streams to recapture value and contribute to the circular economy.
For many centuries the skins of animals have been valued as a durable by-product of the meat industry. However, current intensive farming practices are contributing to the decimation of rainforests, clearing land for intensively raising ever increasing numbers of cattle, thus contributing to CO2 emissions. This session will provide key insights into the place of responsibly farmed and processed animal skins in a diverse materials mix. We will also dive into the growing interest in innovative alternatives that meet demands for non-animal products that limit petrochemical use.
To conclude our deep dive Materials Solutions Digital Masterclass Series, this session draws together the key learnings from the six material sessions to provide an overview of the diverse material directions that will contribute to future proofing our industry. This summary edition provides critical perspectives on where the new materials solutions, directions and opportunities lie in shaping a re-imagined and responsible future for fashion will be explored. The conversation will focus on how the fashion industry can play a positive role? How can its supply chains be climate positive, protect biodiversity and the oceans – what materials to be used to achieve that?
MISSED THE LAST THREE EPISODES OF OUR DIGITAL MASTERCLASS SERIES?
You can still sign up for the full series even if you haven’t been able to tune in so far – we will send you the recordings and all relevant resources!
FULL SERIES: Book all 8 episodes + 9th Future Fabrics Expo Report & Exhibitor Directory included! @ £320.
WHAT EACH EPISODE INCLUDES:
Click here to register for our Materials Solutions Digital Masterclass Series!
Along with the rise in demand for vegan alternatives and for low-priced fast fashion goods in the market, synthetic materials were increasingly used for handbags and accessories. While these fast fashion items often ended up in our landfills to slowly degrade, only recently have we seen a more diverse material landscape, with various bio materials offering viable alternative to the synthetic fabrics that the majority of bags are made of today.
In response to the plastic pollution problem, founders of Swiss backpack brand QWSTION spent three years developing a circular, zero-waste material that they could use in their own collection — and thus, durable, waterproof fabric called Bananatex® was born.
Recently featured in our 9th Future Fabrics Expo, Bananatex® material is a made from banana plants called the Abaća. Finishing treatments with a low environmental impact are applied to the fabric for durability, such as Ruco®-Dry Eco Plus water-repellent treatment (for the surface) & waterproof natural wax coating (on the backside). In addition, the yarn dyeing method applied is certified to Oeko-Tex® Standard 100. Bananatex® can be composted to close the product cycle loop, from plant to bag and back into the soil.
Abaća are cultivated in the Philippines within a natural ecosystem of sustainable mixed agriculture and forestry. Abaćas do not require pesticides or extra water to grow. The sustainable farming of banana plants in this region has been a key contributor to the regeneration and reforestation of areas that were once eroded by soil damage due to monocultural palm plantations…all while ensuring jobs for local farmers.

Left: Abaca plant. Right: Each Abacá plant has several stalks that can be harvested once a year, and regenerate fully within one year. Leaves are left to decompose as fertiliser. Image credit: Bananatex®
Discover the Bananatex® Lifecycle:
The Bananatex Lifecycle from QWSTION on Vimeo.
And the protection of our soils is indeed an urgent matter. According to the UN’s Global Land Outlook, a third of the planet’s land is severely degraded and fertile soil is being lost at the rate of 24bn tonnes per year. The expansion of chemical-based industrial farming is one of the biggest drivers of soil loss and degradation. If we continue to degrade the soil at the current rate, the world will run out of topsoil in about 60 years. Without topsoil, the earth’s ability to filter water, absorb carbon, and feed people, disappears. Soils host a quarter of our earth’s biodiversity. (FAO)
However, a system of regenerative agriculture will have farming practices that function similarly to a natural ecosystem: incorporating beneficial insects, birds and soil microorganisms, unlike a monoculture farming system (Savory). In turn, this helps reverse climate change by rebuilding soil organic matter and restoring biodiversity (Regeneration International). Bananatex® has calculated that in one year, one banana tree can compensate for the CO2 emissions of production and transport of more than 10 bags.
Bananatex® forms one of QWSTION’s main backpack collections, and the fabric was also seen in the Mae chair, a collaboration with German design studio PALAIUS.
We interviewed Hannes Schoenegger, one of the co-founders of QWSTION and Bananatex®, to see what Bananatex® has in store next…
1. Can you provide a brief outline of Bananatex® and what key aspects make it sustainable? Particularly when compared to conventional outdoor materials?
Bananatex grows within a permaculture, without any pesticides, herbicides, fertiliser and without additional water. It is therefore 100% natural and biodegradable without industrial composting support – even the version we use ourselves, with waterproof natural wax coating.
2. How do you think Abacá will play a part in the future landscape of materials? Is it scalable?
The raw material has been cultivated for centuries – mostly to produce special papers from it. Therefore the supply is already very large – which will enable Bananatex to scale substantially.
3. In what ways have you seen that Bananatex had a positive impact on nature and communities?
Wherever we can replace oil-based materials, it will have a major impact. Bananatex, being a truly and fully circular innovation is our contribution to a smaller environmental footprint.
4. What are your goals and plans moving forward?
We started working with several companies and brands from all kinds of industries. Bananatex seems to be an alternative for many products, and we are committed to driving the innovation further with those partners. We will see “third party” products in the market already 2020.
QWSTION – A TEXTILE (R)EVOLUTION from QWSTION on Vimeo.
Throughout June, our schedules have been packed with presenting and moderating at many different conferences, educational workshops, events and talks in London – all these prestigious events were dedicated to sustainability – a clear sign that the fashion industry is finally putting sustainability centre stage where it belongs, and no longer considers it as a ‘trend’, or just a ‘box to be ticked’ in the corporate reports. However, a sense of urgency to act quickly and decisively is still too often lacking..

The Store x The Sustainable Angle

Graduate Fashion Week – Considered Design Hub hosted by stylist Francesca Burns, with 180 The Strand

Fran Burns, The Store, 180 Strand
4 June 2019
We were honoured to collaborate with Francesca Burns, Fashion Stylist, who invited us to hold a workshop at The Store X for her peers, fellow stylists and friends in the fashion industry. We valued the opportunity to engage with stylists directly as they are uniquely placed to direct fashion brands towards more sustainable practice. They often take on a role essentially consulting brands, holding the power to engage said brands, asking questions, recommending more sustainable and responsibly produced materials, helping highlight and communicate fashion that has been created responsibly and sustainably.
Fashion is a key cultural communicator and powerful agent for change that goes beyond simply what we wear. Stylists are working right at that important stage of connection and communication with brands, holding a unique potential to drive engagement with sustainability.

supported by Lenzing Group, Old Trewman Brewery
2 June – 5 June 2019
The Sustainable Angle’s Curator and Educational Consultant – Amanda Johnston – hosted a daily educational workshop at Graduate Fashion Week’s newly launched “Considered Design Hub”, powered by Farfetch. She presented our “8 to Create” systems thinking framework, explored material innovations such as
Tencel ™ Lyocell using Refibra™ technology by Lenzing Group, and showcased how to exercise creative thinking when working with sustainable materials as per the dozens of Tencel™ fabrics on display.
The “Considered Design Hub” was introduced as a response to the increase in graduates focusing on sustainability and the need for more ethical and sustainable practices within the fashion industry. Graduate Fashion Week is the world’s largest event for BA Fashion talent, featuring 25 catwalk shows and stands, alongside a schedule of talks and workshops from leading industry names.

A Stylus Event, County Hall
6 June 2019
Decoded Future 2019 had the underlying theme of… you guessed it! Sustainability. With the aim of shaping a collective vision of what a more sustainable vision could look like, the conference examined everything from the circular economy to the impacts of technological innovations. Our Founder and Director Nina Marenzi moderated the panel “Sharing Is Caring: Is The Second-Hand Economy A Shift In The Shoppers Mindset Or Just A Desire For Discounted Designer Products?” Through questioning and discussion with Katy Lubin, VP communications for Lyst, Sara Arnold, Founder of Higher Studio, and Clara Chappaz, Chief Growth Officer of Vestiaire Collective, the panel discussed the ins and outs of the sharing economy. With consumers continuing to strive for a more sustainable and collaborative way of living (it’s estimated that by 2023 the second-hand market will be worth $51billionUSD), the panel unpacked whether the key solution lies in innovative rental models. Seeing as, on average, over 80% of garments are worn less than three times, there is promise in alternative systems which create a variance in our relationship with our clothes, allowing space to experience luxury at a lower cost and higher speed.
organised by CoGo x Google for Startups Campus
11 June 2019
During London Tech Week, Google Startups UK and Ethical Living App CoGo hosted an event examining how innovation has the potential to create a sustainable fashion that ‘doesn’t cost the earth.’ Our Founder and Director Nina Marenzi was invited to moderate the panel on how innovation is creating a more sustainable footprint in the clothes and ornaments we wear – from diamonds to sweaters and handbags. Kirsty Emery, Co-Founder of UNMADE, Ben Gleisner, Founder and CEO of CoGo, Laura Chavez, Founder of Lark & Berry, and Leanne Kemp, Founder of Everledger joined together to discuss how each of the panellists’ companies is placing sustainability at the centre of its business. From using decommissioned fire hoses in creating accessories (Elvis and Kresse), to using blockchain for tracing natural diamonds (Everledger), to on-demand, customisable design (UNMADE), to discussing lab-grown diamonds avoiding potential problems with mining (Lark & Berry), and finally an app connecting conscious consumers to sustainable businesses in their area (CoGo) – sustainability was the key driver for these innovative and tech solutions!

French Chamber of Commerce, Spring Studios
13 June 2019
London Luxury Think Tank, a spin-off of French Chamber Great Britain, assembles leaders, pioneers and experts from across the fields of Luxury, Fashion, Technology, Research & Innovation, CSR, Ethics and Sustainability to share ideas, expertise and insights. It was wonderful to be a part of it again, now for their second edition, at Spring Studios, where the key focus was sustainability. Our Founder & Director Nina Marenzi was on the panel discussing “What makes a product sustainable & ethical?” Together with Nicolas Gerlier, CEO of La Bouche Rouge, Sylvie Bénard, Head of Environmental Sustainability at LVMH, and Pierre-Alexandre Bapst, Sustainability Director of Hermès, on a panel moderated by Brook Roberts-Islam Co-Director of BRIA. La Bouche Rouge aims to combat harmful plastic pollution of the cosmetics industry by implementing innovative chemical formulation of their purely vegan lipstick which is free of microplastics commonly used in industry, all packaged in a luxurious refillable case. While Hermès’ approach is to put emphasis on heritage, artisanal skills, promoting high quality and longevity of product life cycle. This conversation between key industry players highlighted the fact that within sustainability there is often not a singular, simple solution. There is always a necessity for nuanced, multifaceted, multidisciplinary approaches depending on the ethos of the brand.

Jumeirah Carlton Tower
18 June 2019
Kicking off with a Keynote by our advisory board member, Arizona Muse, The Telegraph’s Responsible Fashion Forum was a day jam-packed with discussions around transparency, traceability and sustainability across the supply chain.
Across the board there was a consensus that Environmental and Social Sustainability go hand in hand, the conversations should not be siloed. This was essential in TSA’s Amanda Johnston’s panel discussion (together with Patsy Perry, Senior Lecturer, University of Manchester, and moderated by Lily Gray, Head of Partnerships, First Mile) where the starting point of discussion was the effects of chemical usage on the environment. Crucially, it was a question from the audience that highlighted that the true effect of chemical usage is on the people who were not present in that room.
Water scarcity affects more than 40 per cent of the global population, and more than 80 per cent of wastewater resulting from human activities is discharged into rivers or the sea without any pollution removal (United Nations, 2018). Most textile processing is heavily concentrated in regions where water quality is already low, putting vulnerable populations at risk.
The perfect finale was hearing from Chair of the Environmental Audit Committee, Mary Creagh MP: Coincidentally the conference took place on the very day of the disappointing decision by the UK Parliament to reject every recommendation from the Fixing Fashion report proposed last February by said committee. This is directly in contradiction with the announcement the week before when the same government enshrined in law that the UK will have “net zero” greenhouse gas emissions by 2050. We commend Mary Creagh for her work and tenacity: When asked “What’s next?” by a member of the audience, she urged everyone in the room to keep pushing for sustainable practice because the voice of the consumer is next, together making it impossible for the government not to listen.
As ever, at The Sustainable Angle, we are presenting thousands of innovative sustainable textiles solutions to the fashion industry that are commercially available. We have been researching and gathering these materials since 2010: we are busier than ever filtering through materials that are produced more sustainably and responsibly in order to ensure they really do have a lower environmental impact. They are in our London studio: see them at one of our masterclasses or book a visit to one of our workshops and will, of course, be showcased at the 9th Future Fabrics Expo 29-30th January 2020 – save the date! Early Bird Registration will open soon…
Read more about the Future Fabrics Expo
Our 8th Future Fabrics Expo returned last week on 24-25th January 2019 for its most ambitious showcase yet!

8th Future Fabrics Expo at Victoria House in London January 25, 2019.
This image is copyright Suzanne Plunkett 2019©.
Our biggest-ever edition of the Expo took place in the sleek, 22,000 sq ft venue of Victoria House Basement in central London, and welcomed more than 2500 visitors over the two days. The turnout and engagement truly exceeded our expectations, with a record number of visitors ranging from luxury brands to high street retailers to startups, academics and students.
As the largest dedicated showcase of sustainable materials for the fashion and textile industry, the 8th Future Fabrics Expo featured over 5000 commercially-available fabrics and materials from suppliers who are offering innovative solutions with a low environmental footprint. For the first time, we showcased a dozen best practice suppliers in their own stand.
The two-day event is unique: a curated showcase which displays educational background information alongside thousands of materials. This enables fashion industry professionals to engage with positive and informed decision-making. We provide tools and advise on responsible practices, promoting a diverse material future. Each material in our showcase is individually labelled with sustainability information, as well as its key environmental criteria, which we developed with the Centre for Sustainable Fashion back in 2011.
As the consumer demand for sustainable products continues to heighten, the fashion supply chain is responding by finding solutions and collaborative opportunities that address the environmental damages caused by our industry.
To support this growing conversation, The Sustainable Angle expanded its 8th expo to showcase the whole sustainability journey, from fibre to garment. This year, we featured 12 best-practice core exhibitors and manufacturers in their own booth, a bigger Innovation Hub that included a collaboration with Fashion for Good-Plug and Play Accelerator Programme, an information zone, and a fashion brands space. Our popular seminar series hosted a dozen discussions with 26 speakers to a captive audience of 250!
The awareness around this year’s 8th Future Fabrics Expo is evident that sustainability is no longer a “trend” or option, but a critical imperative for one of the most polluting industries on the planet. “This culture has to change. We need to be more curious: read the label, ask questions and research the brand’s sustainability credentials,” says Nina Marenzi, Founder and Director of The Sustainable Angle.
Through the resources and activities showcased at the Expo, The Sustainable Angle aims to promote and connect materials suppliers with visionary designers and brands, who realise that fashion can have a positive impact upon nature and communities by working with safe, renewable materials and responsible practices throughout the supply chain.
See the core exhibitors and sponsors that were shown alongside the curated showcase of 5000 materials:
Lenzing Group with TENCEL™ // Hallotex// Toyoshima // Nova Kaeru // Shokay // Advance Denim // Coccccon Crafts Loom // Beyond Surface Technologies // Mozartex // Comistra // Santoni // Procalcado // Bossa Denim // Organic Textile Company // Lebenskleidung //
Manufacturers: Gaia Sourcing // Supply Compass // Profits Fund // Papillon Bleu //
Thank you to all who helped us organise and support this 8th edition, and a SPECIAL thank you to the kind support of all our wonderful interns and volunteers helping during the last few days leading up to the expo.
Event Highlights:
Our favourite seminar quotes:
Full video seminar series available for streaming soon…sign up for our mailing list to stay updated!
STAY CONNECTED >>> to find out more about our upcoming masterclasses on sustainable materials for fashion, resuming March 2019 in London.
A big thank you to:
Avery Dennison// Holition // Fashion for Good // Jeffies // Journey // ModusBPCM // Plates London // Perception Live // Domaine La Ferriere // Elf Ideas // Design Surgery // Showhow // Femi Fem // Papertown // Greenhouse Graphics // Get a Grip Studio
All images copyright2019© photographed by Suzanne Plunkett.
During the festive season we are bombarded with even more pressure to buy, update our party looks and overload our wardrobes, encouraging rapidly increasing clothing waste. According to the report A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning Fashion’s Future published by the Ellen Macarthur Foundation in 2017, 53 million tonnes of fibres are produced annually for the clothing industry, and 73% of garments end up either landfilled or incinerated after consumer use.
At this time of year retailers slash their prices in the sales; bargains are alluring, and we are made to believe that we really need that cheap piece of clothing, but we want to explore how to love and enjoy fashion by building a Sustainable Wardrobe:
• If you buy, choose only items that can create new looks by complementing what is already in your wardrobe. Before purchasing, think about how many times you will likely wear the new item. The #30wears rule suggests that when shopping, ask yourself if you would wear an item at least 30 times – but aim higher, we would say at least #300!
• Buy smart. Products at low prices are of low value and made cheaply. Invest in quality items that last and which can be resold. Check out The RealReal, Vestiare Collective and similar new secondary market companies #invest
• Get creative: Create your own look and wardrobe that includes vintage and secondhand items, don’t buy a whole look, get #creative
• Buy from brands who integrate sustainability at the core of their business – this means brands who not only produce responsibly with sustainable materials but who also ensure fair labour practices. Check their websites #investigate
• Repair– use your needle and thread to mend your loved clothes. Find a local tailor to help if needed. You can even get creative here by customizing and adding elements of your personality or by updating the silhouettes of your garments. #mend #fix #reinvent
• Choose only items that are of good quality and can be loved for a long time or eventually passed down to family and friends- those pieces have emotional resonance and amazing stories attached to them! #handmedown #secondhand
• Look at care labels, check out a brand’s website and search for information about sustainability – ask store staff for more information about the products that you’re buying
• Prolong the life of your clothes by following the washing instructions inside. The Carbon Trust reports that 1.5% of global production of CO2 emissions occur in the consumer washing/laundering process. Check garment labels to care for your clothes properly, skip the dryer and opt for line drying, use cold water settings and wash less often so we can protect our world’s drinking water.
• Invest in filtration gadgets such as this gadget to help fight the microfibres problem that comes from washing our clothes. Synthetic fabrics shed tiny plastic microfibres when washed – 250,000 plastic microfibres can be released after just one washing of a synthetic fleece jacket (EMPOWER @filterfibers) and up to 700,000 microfibres can shed from a typical 6kg (13lb) household load (BBC News). It is not perfect but improves the situation.
• Clothes swapping and rental systems: Hold clothes swaps with your friends, or join designer rental companies such as Rent the Runway, DrexCode, or Armarium. London-based Higher Studio offers more avant-garde choices for the artistically inclined.
• Consider local brands and materials as it also helps reduce your garment’s carbon footprint in the shipping and delivery process. #local
For a quick 5-minute snapshot to building a sustainable wardrobe, see Anuschka Rees‘s beautiful visualisation below:
Discover sustainable materials, fibres and the innovations that will influence the future of a more sustainable fashion system at our upcoming 8th Future Fabrics Expo on 24-25 Jan, 2018.
On the 13th of September The Sustainable Angle’s curator Amanda Johnston was invited to join the Lenzing Sustainability panel discussion during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Istanbul. This year the event was held at the Zorlu Performing Arts Centre, nestled within the luxurious Zorlu shopping centre.
The history of Istanbul Fashion Week only dates back to 2008, then named Fashion Lab, expanding to become a fully-fledged fashion week in 2010.
The panel were greeted by a packed theatre with a diverse audience comprised of fashion fans, industry insiders, buyers, journalists, bloggers, influencers and photographers.
The discussion was chaired by renowned journalist Ferhan Istanbullu, and the panel was coordinated by Hale Saracoglu from Lenzing, who also contributed her expertise in the fashion industry supply chain and in the field of man made cellulosics. She conveyed the importance of clear communication around sustainability to the discussion. Hale explained and highlighted the FSC certified wood feedstock, closed loop production process and key benefits of different Lenzing fibres such as Tencel™, Eco Vero™ and Refibra™.
Ferhan was interested to hear the panel’s thoughts on defining sustainability, and to frame the importance of our fast fashion habits as contributors to the culture of fashion consumption. The panel observed that with fast fashion we have been led to consume very easily in excess quantities. We can throw away the products we don’t like or we don’t want anymore so easily, as their price suggests that their value is disposable, and we have lost the desire, patience and knowledge to care for and repair our clothing.
The challenges designers and brands face today is in implementing holistic sustainable practices- and understanding that sustainability goes beyond choosing the right fibres or production processes, but is also about the quality and longevity of garments, in order to stem the huge environmental impact that comes from today’s throw away culture of clothing.
Amanda introduced the work of the The Sustainable Angle, what we do, and how we developed our criteria, highlighting examples of more sustainable and responsible materials for fashion in both man-made and natural fibres which have a low environmental impact, highlighting the variety of choices available and the necessity to move away from unsustainable non-renewable virgin polyester and conventionally grown cotton currently dominating the market. We discussed the need for diversification of the global fibre basket, and the crucial need to develop circular models throughout the textiles supply chain, and through to product in order to provide solutions to our growing, and unmanageable material waste streams. We shared the interest from industry partners in projects that propose how we may think differently about material sources in the future, and how we manage those waste streams.
At retail lack of information on labels means that consumers don’t know where the fabric come from, what is it made of? The answers to these questions and transparency of process are important. For example TENCEL™ branded fibers come from trees. But, understanding the processes that makes the fibre, yarn and fabric are as important as the raw material of fabrics, only this way we may understand its impact to the environment and make informed choices when we shop. The need for full transparency of information, certifications and supply chain traceability being key.
Simone Seisl, Materials expert, Ambassador and Consultant for Textile Exchange said; ‘we are talking about a very serious subject with global climate change, and we need to act as a community to create a change. We have duties individually both in our professional work environment and personally in our private life. We don’t expect anyone to make a dramatic change from day one to day two however starting from today we need to start this movement step by step. Water waste, global climate change and the micro-plastic issue in the oceans are some of the environmental problems. There is no one solution to all, all the problems are linked together.’
Simone flagged up an opportunity and observed that Turkey is a key player in Denim production in the world, and that Textile Exchange believe that Turkey is poised to play an important role in the successful recycling of Denim in the future, lowering the impact on natural resources and initiating an important step towards the circular economy for textiles.
All agreed there is now an urgency to investigate how we can produce raw materials more sustainably, and innovate, by first thinking in a solutions based way. Also, discussions about some of the new innovations and solutions, developed to address our most pressing sustainability issues, including leather alternatives and the interest in recycling technologies and pre and post consumer industry and food waste materials suggested a new, responsibly produced materials landscape for the future.
The discussion concluded with a Q&A, of not only consumer habits and how to make the right fibre choices, but most importantly of how to think creatively, how sustainability should be recognised as a game changer and an opportunity, for businesses to future proof their operations. The discussion also drew attention to the significance of the impact that we as consumers and industry practitioners can have through our everyday choices.
Many thanks to Hale and the team at Lenzing Istanbul for their organisation and hospitality.
The Sustainable Angle is delighted to announce that the 8th Future Fabrics Expo will present its largest ever dedicated sustainable materials showcase at a new venue, Victoria House, Central London (Holborn WC1) in January 2019.
Following the success of the 7th Future Fabrics Expo in January 2018, and in response to demand from both our partner mills and industry visitors, the 2019 8th edition of the Future Fabrics Expo has increased in scale, ambition and vision.
Our aim is to provide the fashion industry with a one stop shop for accessing a broad range of material solutions, and the strategic tools needed to respond to the critical imperative to change current practices presented by the wasteful and polluting impacts of the fashion and textile industries. Since our inception in 2011, the Expo has facilitated and supported sustainable sourcing practices, enabling fashion brands to begin diversifying their fabrics and materials and lowering environmental impacts.
These materials are global qualities, which showcases and enables informed sourcing. We situate this resource in the current sustainability context, providing educational background information and research, aiming to demystify the complexities of sustainable practice. The best practice traditional natural fibres, regenerated cellulosics, naturals and synthetics bio source, and closed loop materials.
Enhancing our curated selection of globally sourced textiles and materials will be ten specially selected best practice mills and suppliers, presenting their materials in their own dedicated space. For the first time we will also showcase several manufacturers and globally recognized certifiers. A new space presenting fashion brands working with materials sourced via the Future Fabrics Expo provides a view of best practice, from materials sourcing through to product realisation.
We will also again be presenting an exciting expanded Innovation Hub, showcasing both emerging and commercially available innovations, featuring a collaboration with Fashion for Good organisation. The Innovation Hub acknowledges the recent surge in research and design that has led to the plethora of materials innovations we are now seeing surface in response to material scarcity, increasing waste streams, the need for transparent and traceable supply chains, and those addressing the cellulose gap for example .
We have coordinated again an inspirational seminar programme, featuring key thought leaders, panel discussions and presentations from innovators, industry insiders, textile producers and designers.
Why Visit?
Nearest tube station: Holborn station, Central line. Address: Bloomsbury Square, London WC1B 4DA
Please contact us if you require further information at info@thesustainableangle.org
To find out more about The 7th Future Fabrics Expo:
https://thesustainableangle.org/the-7th-future-fabrics-expo-3/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w7Iwmiwq8mw
To find out more about recent events where the Future Fabrics Expo was showcased such as Copenhagen Fashion Summit, The London Textile Fair and London Fashion Week, please see below:
Copenhagen Fashion Summit:
The London Textile Fair:
https://thesustainableangle.org/london-textile-fair
London Fashion Week:
https://thesustainableangle.org/london-fashion-week-round-up
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24th – 25th January 2018, London
The Sustainable Angle holds the 7th Future Fabrics Expo, a curated showcase of 5000+ sustainable innovative fashion materials with a lower environmental footprint, on 24-25th January 2018. Since 2011, our aim is to support sustainable sourcing, enabling fashion brands to begin diversifying their fabrics and materials basket right now in order to reduce their environmental footprint.
Our curated materials collection of 5000+ fashion materials embodies a range of sustainable principles, innovations and new technologies, sourced from international suppliers and mills who demonstrate a commitment to lowering the environmental impact across the textile supply chain. They are selected according to our environmental criteria established with the Centre for Sustainable Fashion. Each material on display has detailed sustainability information, relevant certifications and the contact details of the suppliers displayed.
Why Visit?

Seminars
At the 7th Future Fabrics Expo we will again hold our popular seminars, highlighting circular economy systems and transparency in the fashion supply chain. Tickets include entry to the seminars which can be booked upon entry to the Future Fabrics Expo on a first come first served basis.
Seminars presented by industry leaders from:
The nearest tube stations are
West Brompton on the District line – only 500 yards from Iris Studios.
Earls Court
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Opening Hours: 10am – 6pm
Address: Iris Studios London, SW10 9AE
Please contact us if you require further information at info@thesustainableangle.org
#futurefabricsexpo #thesustainableangle #futurefabricsvirtualexpo #sustainablefabrics #sustainability #fashionmaterials #fabrics #sourcing #7thfuturefabricsexpo
Our new masterclass Mastering Sustainability – material sourcing for designers will be held at our West London Studio on the 7th November.
We have added more dates for our masterclasses due the high demand we had from fashion brands following on from our previous classes earlier on this year.
”With clear presentations, inspiring examples and hands on sample exploration, the Future Fabrics Expo Masterclass has really given me the further understanding and confidence to begin making lasting sustainable changes in my own company.” – Matthew Oliver, Product Designer, Larsson & Jennings
The first in the series will teach designers about material sourcing and the decisions that need to be made as a designer from a sustainable angle. Furthermore we give attendees the chance to discover a diverse range of sustainable materials and resources from the Future Fabrics Expo collection. They will receive our coveted sustainable sourcing guide, which includes a list of suppliers and their contact details.
What to expect:
The Masterclass runs from 9.30am – 12.30pm at 9.30am we’ll have coffee before a prompt start at 10am. You will experience over 3000+ materials with a lower environmental impact, touch and feel them at your leisure after learning about what you should be taking into consideration when sourcing materials sustainably. The masterclass is an interactive and tactile experience to interest and inspire you. You will be given guidance to prepare you for the decisions you’ll need to make as a designer when sourcing and makes it easier for your brand to integrate sustainability at the heart of what you do.
The Future Fabrics Expo is a showcase of innovative and traditional commercially available fibres, fabrics and products that embody a range of sustainable principles and new technologies, sourced from international suppliers and mills who demonstrate a commitment to lowering environmental impact across the textile supply chain. It includes more sustainable alternatives to the widely available conventional fabrics that currently dominate the market, helping fashion companies to begin diversifying their fabric base and lowering their environmental impact at the same time. Materials at our studio will be ideally suited for a wide range of market levels and product types.
Early Bird tickets starting from £90 (Normal price £130) you can book now >>>> http://bit.ly/2wTw1zk
The Future Fabrics Expo Masterclass will be held at our West London studio, London.
The nearest tube stations are:
– Ladbroke Grove – only 0.6 miles from our studio
– Kensal Green
– Kensal Rise Overground
Please contact us if you require further information at info@thesustainableangle.org
See more testimonials from our Masterclasses here:
https://www.thesustainableangle.org/future-fabrics/about/testimonials/
See Fashion works through an online platform, aspiring fashion designers submit and share their designs. See Fashion will support/manage the manufacture and distribution of their products.
I, Martin Brambley, research Fellow at The Sustainable Angle was delighted to sit on the panel hosted by See Fashion. I brought with me a small selection of fabrics including 100% knitted Lenzing fibres, to exemplify the need to diversify the fashion fibre basket.
Ivana Director of see fashion started by introducing the panel consisting of:
– Dr Carmen Hijosa the inventor of Piñatex
– Utami Giles. Head of Sales and Marketing at Ananas Anam
– Charlie Ross – Director and Founder of Offset
– Andra Sandru, founder of ASx2 Acurrator Agency
Through the lively discussion, hosted by Aaron Jones, many points were raised. Interestingly different members of the panel had different perspectives because of their specialisms. On difficult questions such as “What is the most sustainable Fabric?”
Utami Giles – Was asked what she though was the most sustainable fabric. She referenced her own experience of visiting a small village where. Their Hair fibres were brushed from an animal, spun and woven all within the same vicinity. Utami emphasised the benefits of slow and regional processing. Not to mention this shawl is something she now treasures dearly.
Charlie Ross – Was asked about what consumers can do! She responded with an anecdote about her realisation that often if she was buying in to fast fashion, someone else was getting exploited. She was not prepared to do this and therefore stopped buying clothes with fabrics that exploited people. Charlie would encourage anyone to be disciplined about this.
Andra Sandru – When talking about ethical manufacturing, enlightened the group on how to persuade Buyers to buy in to more ethical manufacture. She was commissioned for a large quantity of T-shirts. The Buyer wanted Non-Organic Cotton. Andra was knowledgeable enough to emphasise the properties, lower environmental impact, and small mark-up that can be compensated by the consumer appreciation of organic garments. She therefore persuaded the buyer to spend marginally more. I think Andra is a shining example of a young fashion designer who has the knowledge to tackle and argue against profiteering.
Dr Carmen Hijosa – Spoke about supply chain transparency and revealed that Pinatex don’t allow every designer to buy their fabrics. They take the life cycle of their product so seriously and want designers who buy it to be considerate of the environmental impacts of their production.
I was asked about sourcing in small quantities. I believe that Offset Warehouse is great place to buy small minimums of more sustainable Textiles, some of the mills we work with including Seidentraum, Lebenskleidung also have websites where you can order by the metre. I went on to talk about how if designers have knowledge about sustainable textiles and are prepared to ask the right questions they are able to source textiles more sustainably.
Thank you so much to See Fashion for having this panel.
The 7th Future Fabrics Expo will take place in London on 24th – 25th January 2018, and we look forward to showcasing an exciting range of materials with a reduced environmental impact, more than ever before.
BOOK YOUR PLACE NOW for the 7th Future Fabrics Expo held at Iris Studios, London, and receive further updates.
Alongside our showcase of innovative fabrics with a lower environmental footprint, we also feature low impact leathers and leather alternatives. Background information explaining sustainability in materials is displayed throughout the showcase.
Our curated materials collection embodies a range of sustainable principles and new technologies, sourced from international suppliers and mills who demonstrate a commitment to lowering the environmental impact across the textile supply chain. Our aim is to support sustainable sourcing, enabling fashion brands to begin diversifying their fabrics and materials basket, in order to contribute to reducing their environmental impact. Each fabric has detailed specifications regarding its environmental impact, relevant certifications and the contact details of the supplier displayed.
As in 2017, we will again feature seminars from key organisations and innovators, highlighting circular economy systems and transparency in the fashion supply chain. See Previous seminars HERE
The presentations of the seminars from 2017 can be accessed via the edited online version of the Future Fabrics Expo here: www.futurefabricsvirtualexpo.com/6th-future-fabrics-expo-2017
The Sustainable Angle is proud to support a new charity venture based in West London, which aims to convert underused green spaces into edible teaching gardens for surrounding schools and communities. The pilot project is located in Kensington and will serve Thomas’s School Kensington, St. Mary Abbot’s C of E School and the Victoria Road Montessori Nursery School. Arcadia Charitable Trust has secured the permission of Christ Church, Victoria Road W8 to turn over the southern portion of their garden space to be converted into an edible teaching garden. They have partnered with Edible Playgrounds for the consult, design and construction of the garden. The partnership also entails 12 months of engaged support through workshops and seminars to ensure the garden is embedded into both KS1 and KS2 curriculum. This is an exciting project for as we are all well aware, many urban schools enjoy highly restricted outdoor space, if any at all. The idea behind this initiative is to provide these schools with that rare gift of earth in which to plant and watch things grow and to instil an awareness and appreciation for where food comes from, while providing the surrounding community that same opportunity during school holidays.

We are excited to have Lenzing Group as our new sponsor. Lenzing is a world market leader in the global textile and nonwovens industry producing high-quality botanic fibers. The natural resource wood, which is the basic material for these fibers is sourced only from sustainable origins – within Austria and other countries LenzingTM fibers come from nature and as they are biodegradable go back to nature.
For years our Future Fabrics Expo has showcased dozens of mills who weave and knit fabrics made with fibers from the Lenzing Group. Only fashion materials with a lower environmental impact are shown in the expo and many of the 3000+ fabrics from our 100 suppliers in the expo are made with LenzingTM fibers.
We are excited to now have Lenzing Group itself involved as the fibre maker of these sustainable fabrics and knits. The fibres of Lenzing Group are made from dissolving wood pulp to standard and specialty cellulose high-quality fibres. The most important brands of the Lenzing Group are: TENCEL®, RefibraTM, Lenzing Modal® and Lenzing Viscose®.
We are delighted to have Lenzing Group as our sponsor and helping us in our effort to introduce more sustainable fibres to the fashion industry, increase visibility of sustainable innovations, inform, educate and inspire the fashion community to work with fibres and fabrics with a lower environmental impact. Lenzing Group is committed to the principles of sustainable management with very high environmental standards and can underscore this commitment with numerous international sustainability certifications for its business processes as the most sustainable company in the sector. http://www.lenzing.com/en/responsibility/economic-responsibility/certifications.html

Lenzing’s quality and innovative strength set global standards for cellulose fibers. With 79 years of experience in fiber production, the Lenzing Group is the only company in the world which is able to produce significant volumes of all three cellulose fiber generations.
We are particularly excited by Lenzing Group’s new RefibraTM branded fiber, alyocell fiber, made from pulp that contains cotton scraps left over from cutting clothes and wood. With the Refibra™ fiber Lenzing has initiated an important step towards circular economy for textiles. The TENCEL® fiber won the EU prize for the most ecofriendly production process thanks to its closed loop production of more than 99% and its use of bioenergy. Wood as a renewable raw material from sustainable sourcing is another important aspect when it comes to the sustainability of TENCEL® fibers. The Refibra™ fibers now combine both advantages – the recycling of cotton scraps and the most sustainable of fiber technologies. The fiber is produced in the lyocell process. Lenzing is the first manufacturer to offer cellulose fibers featuring recycled material on a commercial scale and is a pioneer with this technology.
The group is headquartered in Austria, and operates production sites in all major markets as well as has a worldwide network of sales and marketing offices.
The Sustainable Angle travelled to Copenhagen showing a selection of fashion materials from the Future Fabrics Expo in the Solutions Lab of the Copenhagen Fashion Summit. At the summit many cited Orange Fibre, which was showcased on our stand, as a great innovation. We also displayed many Cradle to Cradle certified materials which tied in nicely with the keynote speech of the Cradle to Cradle founder William McDonough.

It was an impressive line up of speakers, thought leaders, pioneers and visionaries from the fashion industry and beyond, presenting their ideas and insights as to how to reduce the fashion industry’s heavy environmental footprint and making it a more responsible and fairer industry by embracing a circular approach.
There was great interest in seeing the materials at our Future Fabrics Expo pop up at the summit. It felt right to have the actual materials on display of which so much was talked about during the summit. It is one thing to talk on stage about ideas and new paradigms, but another to actually design and make products that are responsibly produced and processed and with raw materials that are no longer polluting. See them listed further below and the video as well as their materials on www.futurefabricsvirtualexpo.com
A significant outcome of the 2017 Copenhagen Fashion Summit was the launch of the Call to Action for a Circular Fashion System, which was signed by some of the world’s leading and biggest companies. Signatories of the Call to Action commit to defining a circular strategy, to setting targets for 2020 and to reporting on the progress of implementing the commitment.

Of great interest is the report written by the Global Fashion Agenda, organizer of the summit, together with The Boston Consulting group: Pulse of the fashion industry which sets out ‘a vision of a better fashion industry’.
In summary, what needs to happen next is investing in designs and strategies to extend the life span of clothing, minimize the environmental footprint of production at the design stage by taking into account the end of life of a product at the outset, (eg for it not to end in landfill but rather become the material for the next product without losing value). Investment needs to go into innovations for materials that are clean, renewable, non-toxic, not to the detriment of human’s health nor the planet’s. Quite simply, in the words of Ellen MacArthur, we need to move away from the linear system based on using finite resources creating waste and therefore losing value. What is needed is a system change, to move away from a linear system to a circular system that is restorative and regenerative.
Ananas Anam, innovators of Piñatex™ , is a natural, innovative and patent pending new material, made from pineapple leaf fibres as a by-product of the pineapple harvest. No extra land, water, fertiliser or pesticides are required
Avery Dennison works with brands and retailers worldwide to design and innovate sustainable branding and technology solutions for the apparel and footwear market.
Beyond Surface Technologies AG is a Swiss company creating green chemistry for the finishing process of textiles achieving lower potential hazards and a smaller carbon footprint overall.
Cradle to Cradle Innovation institute, uses the Cradle to Cradle framework to foster a new generation of sustainable products including fabrics, trims and elastics
Doppelhaus produces sustainable non-woven wool fabrics with a lower environmental impact utilising innovative felting technology and 100% British wool saving water and energy, reducing waste and costs.
Nova Kaeru is an exotic bio leathers pioneer in organic tanning and seamless panelling technology for fish, ostrich leg and caiman fish leathers from food waste mainly in Brazil incorporating sustainability, technology and innovation at its core.
Orange fibre is the Italian innovator who developed the patented process to create sustainable textiles from citrus juice by-products otherwise a discarded resource.
The Sustainable Angle is a not for profit organisation with the aim of connecting sustainable innovators producing materials with a lower environmental impact to the fashion industry. Since 2011, our showcase, Future Fabrics Expo, has welcomed thousands of visitors who experienced nearly 3000 materials from over 100 suppliers that embody a range of sustainable principles and new technologies, sourced from international suppliers and mills who demonstrate a commitment to lowering the environmental impact across the textile supply chain. It includes more sustainable alternatives helping fashion brands to diversify their fabric base and so lowering their environmental footprint. The expo can be booked for workshops as part of our advisory services email info@thesustainableangle.org for more info.

Our pop up in the ‘Solutions Lab’ at the Copenhagen Fashion Summit highlights a selection of exhibitors from our Future Fabrics Expo including:
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Ananas Anam, innovators of Piñatex™ , is a natural, innovative and patent pending new material, made from pineapple leaf fibres as a by-product of the pineapple harvest. No extra land, water, fertiliser or pesticides are required
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Avery Dennison works with brands and retailers worldwide to design and innovate sustainable branding and technology solutions for the apparel and footwear market.
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Beyond Surface Technologies AG is a Swiss company creating green chemistry for the finishing process of textiles achieving lower potential hazards and a smaller carbon footprint overall.

Cradle to Cradle Innovation institute, uses the Cradle to Cradle framework to foster a new generation of sustainable products including fabrics, trims and elastics
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Doppelhaus produces sustainable non-woven wool fabrics with a lower environmental impact utilising innovative felting technology and 100% British wool saving water and energy, reducing waste and costs.
Nova Kaeru is an exotic bio leathers pioneer in organic tanning and seamless panelling technology for fish, ostrich leg and caiman fish leathers from food waste mainly in Brazil incorporating sustainability, technology and innovation at its core.
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Orange fibre is the Italian innovator who developed the patented process to create sustainable textiles from citrus juice by-products otherwise a discarded resource.
For more info and to see the video of highlights from the Expo at Copenhagen visit: www.futurefabricsvirtualexpo.com

On March 10th, 2017 The Sustainable Angle founder Nina Marenzi was invited to be a part of The CSR and Ethical Business Society, London School of Economics, roundtable on “Fashion the Future: Towards Sustainability in the Fashion Industry” as part of their project week on sustainability.
The clothing industry is the second most polluting industry in the world, after the oil industry. Textile waste is increasingly a serious environmental threat. In recent years, the acceleration in speed of the fashion supply chain and changing consumer attitudes towards fashion as a disposable commodity has contributed to the large levels of textile waste generated worldwide. In the UK, an estimated 0.8 to 1 million tonnes of all textiles are sent to landfill each year, and used clothing accounts for approximately 350,000 tonnes of landfilled textiles, an estimated £140 million worth.
The CSR and Ethical Business Society at the LSE aims to raise awareness and draw interest of LSE students on the environmental issues posed by fashion industry, the fast-fashion paradigm and the role of consumers; and current initiatives addressing these issues across the clothes lifecycle.
Panellists made up of David Logan, Nina Marenzi, Christina Dean, Caroline Haycock and Jade Galston, each presented on the issues, solutions and future plans from their point of view within their field of expertise:
The roundtable featured the following panellists:
Co-founder of sustainability consultancy Corporate Citizenship and former Director of Special Programs at Levi Strauss & Co has worked extensively on corporate social responsibility issues across the world.
Founder and Director of The Sustainable Angle set up in 2010. The Sustainable Angle is a not for profit organisation that initiates and supports projects which contribute to minimising the environmental impact of industry and society, and that help make it easier for companies, institutions and individuals, to make better informed decisions when it comes to sustainability.
Christina Dean is a sustainable fashion advocate who founded Redress and the EcoChic Design Award. She has recently co-authored the consumer guide entitled ‘Dress [with] Sense’. Redress’s Frontline Fashion’, the documentary about how designers are changing the future of fashion has just been released and is available on itunes.
Christina Dean proclaimed that educating designers on sustainability is an act of environmental activism. Redress is helping teachers to learn about ideas on how to cut waste out of fashion, and generally about zero waste design and up-cycling.
Caroline Haycock has been working in Ethical responsibility and Quality assurance for more than 10 years she is now the Director of Ethical trade and corporate responsibility at Debenhams, Caroline has also worked on campaigns such as ‘Made by Great Britons’ campaign in an effort to help bolster domestic textile production and revitalise the UK clothing industry.
During the talk Caroline referred to the work Debenhams is already undertaking with TRAID, a charity working to stop textiles and footwear from being thrown away to landfill reducing waste and carbon emissions, while raising funds to fight poverty. As well as the informative website on CSR and sustainability they have which you can see here: http://sustainability.debenhamsplc.com. Debenhams’ environmental responsiblitlies focus on carbon, energy and waste, reducing their impact through improved awareness of environmental problems, efficiency and sustainable investment.
Jade Galston founder of Fertha which gives a curated range of men’s and women’s clothing and accessories that has been hand picked from one of their charity partners, creating a sustainable and convenient shopping experience, and extra revenues for the charities they work with.

The roundtable was a great success with good questions from the audience demonstrating how many young people and students are interested in sustainability in the fashion industry, are questioning the status quo and are ready to take action. You can find out more about the work of The CSR and Ethical Business Society at LSE HERE.
The Eco Chic Design award has just been launched again and the deadline for application is 3rd April more information is available on their site HERE.

Last week The Sustainable Angle’s curator Amanda Johnston was invited by the London College of Fashion’s Cordwainers Accessory and Footwear to hold an interactive sustainable materials and sourcing workshop for students and staff.
The workshop started with a presentation discussing the fashion and textile industry’s devastating ecological footprint and social impacts, and how the materials industry is second only to oil in environmental impacts, as well as the number two polluter of clean water in the world. It was stressed that the industry’s over dependency a narrow range of material sources creates risk to the environment and supply chains, and looked at the lead taken by Kering in how we will need to think in a different way to be able to meet the global demand for our materials and textile fibres in the future. The workshop aimed to provide essential information around textile and leather production impacts, and focused on promoting the idea of ‘creative responsibility’, and urging designers to make more mindful materials choices, and to participate in the creation of socially and environmentally responsible supply chains. Some of the industry’s most urgent issues and obstacles were highlighted, discussing the need for creators of the future to be conversant with the impacts of the whole life-cycle of a product, in relation to principles of the circular economy. The students were then invited to become familiar with a range of ‘Skin’ type materials, and to study their sustainability criteria.
The material selection included organic leather which have been vegetable and rhubarb tanned with sophisticated colour palettes from Dani and Deep Mello. There was great interest in the fashion led colours, prints and metallised effects presented by Atlantic Leather, an Icelandic tannery leading in manufacturing exotic leather from fish-skin which are waste products from the food industry, no fish used are endangered species. The fish-leather is produced from four different species of fish; Salmon, perch, wolffish and cod – each with its own unique characteristics – in a diverse range of colours, textures and finishes, all tested by the European Chemical Agency. The ‘wow’ factor of Nova Kearu’s post consumer food waste skins from the giant Brazilian fish ‘Pirarucu’ and ostrich leg leather created great interest. Nova Kearu has developed its own organic, chrome free tanning technology , based on a blend of biodegradable acrylic resins, polymers, synthetic & vegetable tannins which make a superior quality leathers free of heavy metals and environmentally safe. Skins tanned by Nova Kearu are sub-products of the food industry coming from sustainable management farms controlled and regulated by IBAMA which is the Brazilian Institute of Environment and Renewable Natural Resources.
LCF Phd Flavia Amadeu creates rubber materials, and supports small producers and artisans from Amazon rainforest, whose economic activities are integrated with the use of sustainable natural resources. The coloured rubber represents a process of social innovation, which resulted from years of research, and has been responsible for generating social transformation and environmental preservation.
Other materials featured tactile cork based onto a sustainable Lyocell backing, non toxic paper laminated on to sturdy denim and canvas by Paper Number 9, Waterproof and durable Pinatex pineapple leaf fibre, featuring new mirrored metallic coatings, BarkTex tree bark fibre, suede-like mushroom ‘leather’ Muskin, Japanese faux leathers from Ultra Fabrics, and brand new food waste technology Frumat faux leathers, utilising apple pectin.
Thank you to LCC photography student Hazif Zainol.
At the Sustainable Angle we spend much of our time researching and sourcing innovative textiles and materials with a lower environmental footprint and reducing the fashion industry’s over-dependency on conventional cotton and polyester. These materials are showcased in the annual Future Fabrics Expo as well as in workshops and Pop ups throughout the year, and a curated selection on www.futurefabricsvirtualexpo.com. This year we are delighted to have DANI S.p.A included as both exhibiter and speaker at the seminars during the 6th Future Fabrics Expo on the 25 – 26th January 2017. For seminars and Exhibition register here.
For more than 10 years, Dani has chosen to be a sustainable company, recognising the social and environmental responsibility principles that guide its current and future business accomplishments, that are oriented towards development of the company and its employees, while safeguarding the future generations. Dani S.p.A is a leading leather manufacturer that has chosen to compensate circa 2,000 tonnes of CO2 released for the production of “Zero Impact” leather.
We had the pleasure of interviewing DANI S.p.A Marketing Manager Marta Fumei about their Zero Impact leather and what obstacles they think the fashion industry needs to overcome to become a more sustainable industry.

TSA – Can you provide a brief outline about what Zero Impact is and how it has evolved since its inception?
DANI – As a 66 year old family owned tannery, at Dani we felt it was important to develop what would have not simply be a “new product” but an icon of our corporate philosophy -that touches each strategic choice and innovation technology- integrated in the company’s DNA.
This is how Zero Impact Leather was born. We developed this project in three winning moves.
More Innovation: Innovations along the production process thanks to technological improvement in un-hairing, tanning, re-tanning and finishing phases, to substitute all heavy metals.
Less Emission: Thanks to our ability to measure CO2 emissions and the innovations introduced in the production phases, we were able to lower our CO2 emissions by 5%
Zero Impact: To reach the total compensation of CO2 produced, we are involved in a reforestation program in partnership with AzzeroCO2. Since we started we already planted 1,869 trees in Italy.

TSA What first inspired the owners to start developing Zero Impact? Was it a desire to improve sustainability in the fashion and leather industries or something else?
DANI Thanks to the technology available today, there are less concerns related to the sustainability of leather tanning. Innovations have been implemented to all phases of the process to limit the use of natural resources, to recover the waste and to have a better control of the entire production while safeguarding the working environment and respecting the laws that regulate our industry.
The desire to brush off our shoulders the image of a polluting and carless industry guided our development and choices, until sustainability became for us the priority: we conduct ongoing research to reduce the environmental impact of our production and at the same time we collaborate with the tanning district of Arzignano, including the purifying plant, chemical companies and all other partners that transform our waste into other products.
TSA Can you tell us about any positive environmental / social impacts you have seen or expect to see as a result of Zero Impact?
DANI The realisation of this project was also possible thanks to the involvement, participation, suggestions and experiments conducted with our partners.
With this project we would like to approach even more sustainable brands, building together a product that is responsible for consumers, the environment and the future generation. We would like to build awareness about the possibility of producing in a more sustainable way, and about the fact that we always put the research of innovative products as a starting point for everything we do.
To prove this, for two years Dani has been publishing its Sustainability Report: distributing it is our free choice, and represents our will of informing our stakeholders about the impact of our activities in a social and environmental context, explain our remuneration policy and commitments to employees, provide information on the relationship with customers and suppliers, and our involvement with the local community.
TSA Do you expect Zero Impact to be used by more large industry players in the future?
DANI Of course! We know for a fact that we are not the only one looking into this kind of innovation, but above all, we know that our customers are looking more and more for a partner rather than a supplier, someone that is safe and reliable, that can assure a certain level of quality, especially when it comes to what do we use to tan our leather.
TSA The fashion, leather and textiles industries are some of the worst offenders out there for negative environmental and social impact. What do you think are the most pressing environmental and social challenges that we are facing in the industry?
DANI Unfortunately the past actions and the past practices undertaken by the fashion industry have not always proved them right. Is it also true, that the world as it is today cannot keep up with the increasing demand of throw away fashion: our habit has changed so much that, for a lot of people, now shopping is just a primary leisure and they want everything at a low price. The fashion industry has a very complex supply chain and, for this reason, companies should start looking at each stage and character of this: not only to reduce the use of natural resources and better select the raw material needed, but especially behaving ethically and contributing positively to the society and to the environment, everywhere in the world. It is important to pay attention to all the sustainable dimensions in order to start making the difference. When we only consider one or another, we lose something along the way and our commitment does not build as much.
TSA What do you think is the biggest obstacle to becoming a more sustainable and less harmful industry?
DANI The biggest obstacle would be not to focus on all aspects of sustainability but only on one of these. In fact, there cannot be an economy without a society, and a society cannot survive in an environment that will not last for long. We should not forget that the environment is the most important element, where everything happens and on which everything depends.

TSA What are your plans moving forward?
DANI With the project Zero Impact we would like to start a contagious activity, not only directed to our B2B customers, but also to the final consumer. We would like to bring to their attention the care and the attention we pay every day in what we do and how we do it. We are looking at the future imaging new partnership with University and research Institute, to make sure to build together innovations. We are also looking at young generations, trying to leave them with a knowledge about higher care for the society and the environment, and trying to give them the possibilities to grow with us.
TSA How can industry professionals and consumers get involved and engage with the work you are doing?
We always love to promote our “open door” policy, and one of our main aims is to welcome anyone that has is curious, or is willing to learn more about leather. We would like to invite professionals and consumers into our plants in Arzignano to experience a day at the tannery. We would like professionals to try our products while sharing the same visions and values. We are here to give you all the explanation you might need and to share our passion and our knowledge.
To find out more about DANI S.pA and their Zero Impact leather (Zero Impact Leather & http://www.gruppodani.com)
Follow us: @Sustainable_Ang @TheSustainableAngle #futurefabricsexpo

Amanda Johnston of The Sustainable angle talks Supply chain, over consumption and researching sustainable textiles with Harpers Bazaar Argentina:
It was a great pleasure to be interviewed by Harpers Bazaar Argentina for their November issue, during my recent visit to Argentina to participate in INTERDISENO 2016, the University Network knowledge exchange program.
After a hectic day at INTI headquarters, meeting staff teams and delivering a lecture to an audience of SME’s, I met with Harpers magazine’s journalist and photographer in Buenos Aires’ cool Palermo district to share a drink, and to talk about sustainable fashion and textiles, and consumer culture.
We discussed the main challenges facing fashion and textiles, and that our industry is ranked the second most polluting in the world. The prevailing economic system that the fast fashion system in the West is perpetrating is counter intuitive; it is the nature of this model that it needs all the time to produce more clothes, and open new stores at an ever increasing pace interested. The consumer is led to believe that clothing should be cheap in relation to other goods, so today it is very difficult to understand true value and the ecological and human cost involved in its production,” The workers who are manufacture our clothes on the other side of the world often do not earn enough to live “
I explained the work of The Sustainable Angle, and our focus on spotlighting opportunities for change right the way along the supply chain, and showcasing and research into sustainable textiles from around the world. “The textile industry is an opportunity for significant change by itself, but the communication of the message has to be positive regarding the whole product cycle: We can not discharge responsibility for over consumption and fast disposal only on the consumer; all players must play a part in operating responsibly. “
Part 2
At The Sustainable Angle we spend much of our time researching how fashion’s environmental impact can be lowered through textile innovation, and novel ideas to transform the fashion system and design practice. Certifications and standards play a hugely important part in the monitoring and transparency of these innovations and textile practices. Today we are continuing our questions with Christopher Stopes the UK Representative for The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). You will find hundreds of GOTS certified fabrics in the Future Fabrics Expo 25-26th January in London, as well as a preview of a selection of these fabrics in our Future Fabrics Virtual expo available 24hrs online here. If you missed Part 1 you can catch up here

TSA: In debates about more sustainable fibres, cotton is often considered as too ‘thirsty’ and therefore not a viable option for a future with low water tables. Would you say organic cotton is a viable option, though?
GOTS: Organic cotton uses less water, so it is an obvious choice if you want to be more sustainable. According to a report from MADE-BY for UK government, “Organic cotton production can reduce the toxicity, energy use and greenhouse gas emissions of growing cotton and has the potential to deliver added social benefits”. Buying organic cotton has been calculated by the Swiss organisation Helvetas to cut CO2 emissions by 18% when compared with buying conventional.
TSA: As the world’s leading standard for organic textile processing, what is GOTS’ biggest challenge moving forward?
GOTS: Making sure that the fashion industry cleans up its act through taking on board high standards, such as GOTS, that cover the whole supply chain and are independently certified. We want to make sure that the textile sector (fashion and apparel, work wear and personal care) provides a truly sustainable organic option, using organic approved processing and organically produced fibres. We are not only talking about organic cotton, but organic wool, linen and other organic fibres too.

TSA: Today the fashion industry is said to be the second most polluting industry in the world, next to the oil industry. What do you think are currently the most pressing environmental and social challenges in the fashion and textile industry?
GOTS: There is an urgent need to work to stop the appalling social conditions in the industry, one that depends too much on child labour, modern slavery, in unsafe buildings and bad working conditions. We see the consumption of cheap clothes on the backs of many people! And there are huge challenges from the highly polluting textile processing plants. GOTS places tight requirements on the permitted chemicals (GOTS exceeds the Greenpeace Detox requirements) and it is mandatory for GOTS certified textile wet-processing plants to have a working water treatment plant.
TSA: Where do you see the most potential for change in the fashion industry?
GOTS: Changing consumption patterns, caring for our clothes and making them from high quality organic fibres, in socially and ecologically sustainable value chains. That’s what GOTS is about! And it requires independent third party inspection and certification – so it overcomes one of the huge problems in the fashion industry – greenwash!
TSA: How do you think initiatives like the Future Fabrics Expo can help organisations such as yours?
GOTS: The Sustainable Angle and Future Fabrics Expo help spread the word and that means we can work better together and so help make a difference in the fashion industry!
TSA: How can industry professionals and consumers get involved and engage with the work GOTS do?
GOTS: Look at our GOTS simple show video to find out more about GOTS. Remember that there are important differences between organic and conventional cotton production and processing. Find out more about GOTS certification through the GOTS website.

We are delighted to introduce seminars at the 6th Future Fabrics Expo in London, 25-26 Jan’17 10am-5pm., a showcase of 1500+ materials with a lower environmental impact, accompanied by background information on sustainability in fashion.
Speakers from The Sustainable Apparel Coalition, The Responsible Wool Standard, Textile Exchange, GOTS and DANI S.p.A. Sustainable Leathers will present 30 minute seminars over two days.
Book tickets here

The Sustainable Wool Standard is an independent, voluntary standard. On farms, the certification ensures that sheep are treated with respect to their Five Freedoms and also ensures best practices in the management and protection of the land. Through the processing stages, certification ensures that wool from certified farms is properly identified and tracked. Find out more about The Sustainable Wool standard here
The Sustainable Apparel Coalition is the apparel, footwear and home textile industry’s foremost alliance for sustainable production. The Coalition’s main focus is on building the Higg Index, a standardized supply chain measurement tool for all industry participants to understand the environmental, social and labour impacts of making and selling their products and services. By measuring sustainability performance, the industry can address inefficiencies, resolve damaging practices, and achieve the environmental and social transparency that consumers are starting to demand. Find out more about The Sustainable Apparel Coalition here
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is recognised as the world’s leading processing standard for textiles made from organic fibers. It defines high-level environmental criteria along the entire textiles supply chain and requires compliance with social criteria as well. Find out more about The Global Organic Textile Standard here
Textile Exchange is a global non-profit organization that works to make the textile industry more sustainable. We work with everyone involved in making your textiles, including everything from clothes to sheets to towels and more. Together, we’re trying to help the textile world make better decisions so that we’re not only reducing harm to the environment but also bringing about positive change. We identify and share best practices regarding farming, materials and processing so we can reduce the impact on the world’s water, soil, air and human population. Read more about Textile Exchange here
DANI S.p.A was founded as a small family run tannery in Italy. The company is located in Arzignano (Vicenza), which is the main tanning center in the world. Their leather Zero Impact is chrome free, heavy metal free and complies with the specifications ISO15987. DANI was the first it its field to obtain the “environmental footprint” ISO/TS 14067:2013, an environmental indicator that quantifies the greenhouse gas produced along the whole supply chain, from agriculture to the finished leather. DANI intends to become a point of reference in the tanning industry for the efficient use of natural resources and energy, the use of low-impact chemicals, encouraging suppliers and customers to improve environmental operational practices, starting up research and development projects, transparent communications with local communities and the daily commitment of each and every employee. Read more about DANI S.p.A.’s ‘zero impact leather’ here.

If you are unable to attend the expo, please get in touch to discuss tailored workshops for your company. You can also find a curated selection of fashion materials with a reduced environmental impact on www.futurefabricsvirtualexpo.com
Follow us: @Sustainable_Ang @TheSustainableAngle #futurefabricsexpo
In October Amanda Johnston travelled to Amsterdam, to present and showcase a selection of fabrics from The Sustainable Angle’s collection at Modint, the Dutch trade association and consultancy for fashion, interior design, and textiles at their headquarters in Zeist.
Amanda presented to an audience of SME’s and led an interactive seminar for Modint members about the Sustainable Angle’s material resources, and how to implement more responsible sourcing in their supply chain.
There was particular interest in recycled textiles, hemp, banana fibre and Pinatex, along with regenerates in innovative blends. The yet to be launched Biopolyester, ‘Ecodear’ from Toray was also a big hit. The day included presentations from Centexbel, the Belgian textiles research centre, Lenzing fibres explained their closed loop production, and Annet Feenstra from H&M spoke about their sustainable initiatives.
Modint also facilitated networking for small and larger companies to share their experiences of using alternative materials in their collections. Modint are about to publish their own Sustainable Materials guide and Eco-tool in November 2016 to help their members calculate their company’s impacts.
A big thanks to Modint for hosting The Sustainable Angle.
Part 1
At The Sustainable Angle we spend much of our time researching how fashion’s environmental impact can be lowered through textile innovation, and novel ideas to transform the fashion system and design practice. Certifications and standards play a hugely important part in the monitoring and transparency of these innovations and textile practices. Today we are talking to Christopher Stopes the UK Representative for The Global Organic Textile Standard GOTS. You will find hundreds of GOTS certified fabrics in the Future Fabrics Expo 25-26th January in London, as well as a preview of a selection of these fabrics in our Future Fabrics Virtual expo available 24hrs online here.

TSA: Can you provide an outline of GOTS’ aims?
GOTS: The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) aims to be the comprehensive ecological and social standard for the entire textile supply chain based on the use of certified organic fibres. It is the gold standard for sustainable organic textiles.
Organically produced fibre is required in GOTS. This means that on the organic farm no GMOs, no artificial fertilisers and no agro-chemicals are used. Instead certified organic farmers use crop rotation and alternative methods of crop production.
GOTS covers textile processing, manufacture, labelling and sale of clothes and other products through to the final consumer. Permitted chemicals allowed in textile processing meet stringent criteria for environmental and human health (exceeding Greenpeace Detox requirements).
There are clear ecological and social benefits from the strict criteria in the standard. Customers can check the certification ID on a GOTS certified product in the GOTS Public Database.

TSA: Can you tell us more about what you think the future looks like for the organic cotton market, in a world where fertile soil is becoming ever more limited and eventually required for increased food production?
GOTS: It’s really important that we look after our soils and that means fostering natural cycles. Organic farming produces cotton and other fibres in a way that helps protect the environment and enhance biodiversity. The demand for organic cotton is growing steadily as more and more people realise the social and environmental problems with GM and pesticide based cotton. Organic cotton farming depends on crop rotation including food crops, so small farmers benefit from better food security – something that can be really important for them.
TSA: With most cotton usually being grown in monocultures, can smaller organic cotton farms ever grow enough cotton to replace what is currently grown in intensive agriculture?
GOTS: The other way of thinking about that question is whether we can afford to go on as we are! We are consuming cotton too freely, for fast fashion – where we throw away our clothes without a second thought. There is a huge challenge ahead about rethinking our consumption – of food, and fashion, and many other things. Thinking that we can rely on conventional intensive monocultures is old thinking. We can produce enough if we produce with the principals of health, care, ecology and fairness – we just have to look after what we produce!
TSA: Can you describe your favourite encounter with an organic cotton farmer or other hands-on-experience while working for GOTS?
GOTS: One of the most inspiring things about organic cotton farming is the stories from small farmers for whom organic production has meant that they can free themselves from the dependency on dangerous pesticides and grow organic cotton and food crops in rotation so helping to feed their families. I love the three great stories from farmers in China, India and Benin in the Soil Association Report Organic Cotton Helps to Feed the World. They really show how organic cotton can make a difference.

Last week The Sustainable Angle’s Amanda Johnston was invited by GLE ONE London to hold an interactive sustainable materials and sourcing workshop. The workshop was hosted by UFKT (UK Fashion & Textile Association) at their Headquarters in Holborn. Aimed at London based designers and brands the free workshop was initiated to focus on sustainable materials and sourcing, exploring the textile value chain and market.

The workshop started by discussing the textile industry’s overall ecological footprint and social impact, touching upon areas such as the textile industry being the number two polluter of clean water in the world, in times when clean water is a scarcity. We also stressed the industry’s over dependency on conventional cotton and polyester, and how we will need to think in a different way to be able to meet the global demand for textile fibres in the future. The workshop aimed to provide essential information for ensuring a socially and environmentally responsible supply chain, and tips and guidance on how to start sourcing more sustainably. We highlighted some of the industry’s most urgent issues and obstacles, and invited the audience, consisting of London based SME’s, to share their own experience, and concerns about the future of sustainability in textiles.
The day provided the opportunity for young designers to get an overview of the current textiles landscape. Highlighting possibilities, strategies and tools for businesses to take the lead and change the way in which the textile industry operates. The workshop covered everything from certifications and tools through, evaluating and finding fabric suppliers to the latest textile innovations with a lower environmental impact. We rounded of the day by sharing some of our latest sustainable material innovations, those already available and some of which are currently in development in order to encourage future thinking when it comes to sustainable sourcing.

As with all of our events there were a large selection of sustainable materials on show to illustrate the increasing range of commercially available materials on market today, as well as numerous innovations highlighted in the presentation.
We are continuing to expand our collection of over 1,500 sustainable materials and you can discover a curated selection online and the full selection of fabrics with a lower environmental impact at the Future Fabrics Expo, London, 25-26th January 2017. REGISTER NOW!
You can find out more about GLE workshops Here

Join SUSS UK – the start-up behind this year’s Sustainable September event for a Saturday networking event dedicated to those working within the sustainable industry. Any brand, big or small, start-up or barely begun, that’s looking to meet likeminded people, expand their contacts within the sustainable industry and form connections for future partnership and collaborations.
This is a networking event for sustainable fashion, beauty and lifestyle brands to make connections, ask difficult questions and collectively find solutions to the environmental and economic problems facing the industry. Bring yourself, an open mind, the willingness to share ideas, advice and experiences, and a little blurb about who you are, what you do and what you’re trying to achieve.

When
Saturday 26th November – 11am to 2pm.
Where
Work.Life, 1E Mentmore Terrace, London Fields, London, E8 3DQ
Register at:
https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/sustainable-fashion-networking-event-tickets-28564083944
SUSS is the brainchild of fashion designer Abigail Grainger and journalist Emma Grace Bailey. The start-up aims to proactively, through events and media engagement, create awareness of sustainability and environmental issues within the fashion and beauty industries. At the cutting edge of popular culture these industries have a responsibility to educate and inform the general public. SUSS hopes to lead the way in this regard.
Join SUSS UK on social media
Instagram: @isusseditout Facebook: SUSS UK
The Sustainable Angle’s educational consultant and curator Amanda Johnston recently travelled to Argentina to present seminars and participate in workshops during a British Council and London College of Fashion knowledge exchange initiative during DISENO 2016. The program began in Buenos Aires, with a lecture to an audience of SME’s about the issues surrounding the fashion and textiles industries, and to discuss what we can do to reduce our impact on global communities and our environment.
The talk was part of a series of events during DISENO 2016, organised by INTI, Argentina’s National Institute of Industrial Technology Textile department which drew together a network of twenty participants from eight Universities, along with the young creators of start up brands.

The program then moved on to Tucuman University in the North East of Argentina to meet with the Randera’s; craftswomen continuing the intricate traditional knotted lace making technique of Randa. Following the Randa workshop, which raised issues surrounding authenticity, the preservation of craft and its potential place within a contemporary fashion industry. The team then arrived at the University residence in the breathtaking hills of San Javier for an immersive four days of creative workshops, think tanks and forming of manifesto’s that consider the social, cultural, ethical and ecological considerations of the role of the craftsperson, designer, and the impacts of the fashion industry.
This initiative represents an exciting ongoing opportunity for exchanging knowledge and exploring education for sustainability across borders and cultures.
Education plays a vital role in moving the industry towards a more sustainable future, and we look forward to continuing to contribute to the debates and innovative development being initiated as a result of the increasing challenges our world is facing.
At the Sustainable Angle we spend much of our time researching and sourcing innovative textiles and materials with a lower environmental footprint and reducing the fashion industry’s over-dependency on conventional cotton and polyester. These materials are showcased in the annual Future Fabrics Expo as well as in workshops and Pop ups throughout the year, and a curated selection on www.futurefabricsvirtualexpo.com. This year we are delighted to have Orange Fiber’s innovations included in the 6th Future Fabrics Expo 25 – 26th January 2017.
In a time where fertile land is fast becoming a limited natural resource, innovative solutions are needed. The Italian Start-up Orange Fiber uses citrus waste, a by-product from the Italian juice industry to produce high quality textile fibres with a low environmental impact.
Sicily has a massive production of citrus juice, which every year also leaves around 700 tons of waste materials.
The two co-founders of Orange Fiber, Adriana Santanocito and Enrica Arena, saw the potential in this and developed a system where Orange Fiber converts orange peels, a by-product from the Sicilian juice industry, into high qualitative cellulose fibres. The Sustainable Angle asked Orange Fiber a few questions about their innovation and what they believe the future holds for the textile industry.

TSA: Can you provide a brief outline about what Orange Fiber is and how it has evolved since its inception?
OF: Orange Fiber is an Italian company that uses an innovative process to creates sustainable textiles for Fashion from citrus fruit by-products. Having created a supply chain network with partner companies we opened the first industrial plant in Sicily and produced different prototypes. The first textile production has been completed and some interesting top fashion brand proposals are being evaluated in view of entering the market by 2016.
TSA: What first inspired you to start to develop Orange Fiber?
OF: Orange Fiber’s idea is the result of a deep love for our homeland of Sicily, blended with the desire to innovate in a sustainable way; the Italian industry, known for its excellence in textile production.
The Orange Fiber supply chain from citrus by-product through spinning, weaving and finishing is our contribution towards sustainable fashion practice and economic, social and environmental development.
In 2011, Adriana Santanocito was studying Fashion Design and innovative materials at Afol Moda Institute of Milan, when she heard of the sustainable textiles trend, and decided to explore the subject in her thesis. By simply discussing this with citrus juice producers she discovered the problem behind the disposal of citrus waste and had the intuition to transform citrus juice by-products into a new product that would represent a brand new opportunity for Italian tradition in high quality fashion textiles. She shared the idea with Enrica Arena, and with creativity and will, they started Orange Fiber.
TSA: Can you tell us about any positive environmental / social impacts you have seen or expect to see as a result of Orange Fiber?
OF: Our innovative and patented process reduces the cost and the environmental impact of pollution related to the industrial waste of citrus juicing, by extracting a raw material apt for spinning. Our solution offers the opportunity to satisfy the increasing need of cellulose for textile, thus preserving natural resources. This process reuses waste products, saves land, water and environmental pollution.
TSA: At the moment Orange Fiber is a very new and small-scale innovation. How do you expect it to be used by the industry in the future?
OF: We will complete the process of research and development, optimise the cost of production and start replicating the plant in Italy and abroad. Italy produces just 4% of the worlds citrus juice, so the opportunities to replicate the process are endless, and will allow us to lower the product price, becoming competitive with materials such as polyester and cotton. TSA: The fashion and textiles industries are some of the worst offenders out there for negative environmental and social impact. What do you think are the most pressing environmental and social challenges that we are facing in the industry?
OF: The most pressing environmental and social challenges that we are facing in the industry have to do with natural resources, protection and conservation along with the adoption of ethical business models. Considering the human cost of manufacturing clothing is as crucial as profit. In particular, fashion and textiles industries have to work to:
TSA: What do you think is the biggest obstacle to becoming a more sustainable and less harmful industry?
OF: We believe that the biggest obstacle for the fashion industry is the fast fashion and high volume consumerist approach we have come to see. This supply chain reduces R&D and sustainability efforts in order to keep low price points and give consumers more choice.
TSA: What are your plans moving forward?
OF: Since we strongly believe that “the future is not a place we’re going to, but a place we create”, we will continue to research and develop products and new raw materials, working on industrial scale-up and improving our process according to circular economy principles. Our aim is to establish Orange Fiber as the first Italian brand to move into the sustainable textiles industry, through “green” production from renewable sources and contribute to creating a greener fashion industry.
TSA: How can industry professionals and consumers get involved and engage with the work you are doing?
OF: We are creating a B2B2C product addressing the need of fashion brands to use a high quality sustainable and innovative textile for their collections and the need of the consumer to have access to high quality sustainable clothing. Establishing Orange Fiber as an Ingredient Brand, we aim to get involved and engage with industry professionals and consumers working on the added value of the fiber origin and its environmental and social sustainability.
At The Sustainable Angle we spend much of our time researching and sourcing both innovative and sustainable materials to showcase in the annual Future Fabrics Expo. We show a wide range of alternatives with a lower environmental and social impact to cotton, polyester and conventional leather. These materials are also shown in other events and workshops throughout the year, and on www.futurefabricsvirtualexpo.com.
Atlantic Leather is an Icelandic tannery leading in manufacturing exotic leather from fish-skin which are waste products from the food industry. No fish used are endangered species. The fish-leather is produced from four different species of fish; Salmon, perch, wolffish and cod – each with its own unique characteristics – in a diverse range of colours, textures and finishes, all have been tested by the European Chemical Agency. Atlantic Leather is stationed in Sauðárkrókur, a small but vibrant community of roughly 4000 inhabitants, located in the heart of Skagafjörður, Iceland. The development of the fish leather has been processed since 1994, but the idea itself is rooted in tradition.

We have been lucky enough to interview Atlantic leather’s Manager Sigurlaug Vordís Eysteinsdóttir, to find out more about Atlantic Leather, and how fashion businesses and consumers cannot only use this material but visit where it is made.
TSA: Firstly, can you tell us what sustainability means to Atlantic Leather?
Atlantic Leather: Sustainability means the power of nature to us at Atlantic Leather. Respect nature and it’s power.
TSA: Can you provide a brief outline about the products Atlantic Leather creates, and what makes them more sustainable than other leathers?
Atlantic Leather: We produce Salmon, Perch, Cod and Wolffish leather from the by-product from the food industry. We also produce washable Salmon and Salmon tanned from the bark of the Mimosa tree. We turn waste products from the food industry into exotic luxury leather by using the power of nature. In Iceland we are fortunate to have plenty of hot water from geothermal sources, and our electricity comes from a hydroelectric power station. So we rely on the power of nature; exotic and eco-friendly.
TSA: What was the inspiration behind using fish skins to create leather for the fashion industry?
Atlantic Leather: Icelanders are known for reusing everything that others think is trash and we still have our ancestor’s spirit of finding the useful in everything. Iceland is a big fishing industry nation, our ancestors used the fish skins for their shoes, so the inspiration was, find a use for 100% of each fish Icelanders catch and Icelanders are on our way to completing that task, Atlantic Leather is a big part of that project.
TSA: Can you tell us about any positive environmental / social impacts you have seen or expect to see as a result of Atlantic Leather?
Atlantic Leather: Firstly, we don’t have any leather from endangered species, many designers have gone from snake skin to our Salmon skin for example. Atlantic Leather is the only tannery in Iceland and is based in the north of Iceland in a society with a population of 4000. Atlantic Leather was voted the best Tannery of the year in the European section that is a big recognition in our small country. Our leather is inspiring for people, we have so many colours and varieties of finish.
TSA: The fashion and textiles industries are some of the worst offenders out there for negative environmental and social impact. What do you think are the most pressing environmental and social challenges that we are facing in the industry?
Atlantic Leather: Money is the most challenging thing for tanneries. It costs a lot to be sustainable and because we are, then it makes our products expensive in the end. It is also important to stop playing hide and seek and start to open the tanneries up to customers so they can see it with their own eyes and be informed about sustainability. To be truly environmental you have to not be afraid to inform how you carry out the task, and when asked ethical questions, not being afraid of the answer.
TSA: What do you think is the biggest obstacle to becoming a more sustainable and less harmful industry?

Atlantic Leather: Again Money, For Atlantic Leather being stated in Iceland is our biggest obstacle but is also our biggest advantage
TSA: What are your plans moving forward?
Atlantic Leather: Just keeping up our 20-year process in our tanning product, keeping up our developments, and marketing our products more.
TSA: How can industry professionals and consumers get involved and engage with the work you are doing?
Atlantic Leather: Everybody is welcome to visit our tannery, they are able to order sample pack from us, we can ship all over the world, We are on social media, and visit our stand at The Future Fabric Expo☺
written by Charlotte Turner
On 12th May 2016, over 1200 people from 52 countries gathered at the fourth edition of the Copenhagen Fashion Summit, in a city with the ambition to become “the first carbon-neutral capital in the world” according to the summit’s patron, Crown Princess Mary of Denmark. Denmark has one of the most impressive track records when it comes to environmental and social wellbeing, so it’s fitting that it acted as an important example of how we can shape our communities and industries, respecting the environment, workers and citizens. The event was preceded by a week of roundtables, discussions and conferences by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), the Youth Fashion Summit, and Planet Textiles, making Copenhagen a hub of discussion and change.
The summit, organized by the Danish Fashion Institute on behalf of the Nordic Fashion Association, focused on ‘responsible innovation’, moving us to think more deeply about the true meaning of the word sustainability, which is at risk of becoming undervalued or even dismissed through over use. This year illustrated that collaboration, education, and innovation will be absolutely essential to create a better future, moving us closer to reaching the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals agreed as part of COP21 in Paris last year, halting the breakneck speed of climate change and moving us closer to social equality. The Youth Fashion Summit, a gathering of over 100 students from 40 nations illustrated this clearly (and incredibly professionally) through their demands to the global fashion industry to act now, using the Sustainable Development Goals as a starting point – no small task. As Dilys Williams, Youth Summit facilitator and mentor said, “This is the first generation of people who really understand climate change, and the last ones who can really do anything about it.” It was therefore reassuring to see such a strongly united group of students, although there’s still a lot to do to get this generation as a whole on the same page.

Image source: Copenhagen Fashion Summit
Overall, this years summit seemed more hopeful than previous editions, through the vulnerability and willingness to collaborate shown by the brands and organisations who presented during the day. Rather than simply declaring victories and achievements, we saw the recognition that whilst important steps have been and are being made, there is still much to be done and challenges to overcome, for which collaboration and openness is essential. Summit host Amber Valetta stressed that “economic growth and sustainable development are not mutually exclusive,” and it’s hoped this will prove true to the brands which hold growth for investors as a key driver.
The Danish Minister for Foreign Affairs, Kristian Jensen, expressed his view that “politically, we must push for common global frameworks… as through unifying efforts and defining a common agenda, a level playing field [will be] established.” This is an important issue that we’ve seen emerge through the growing myriad of complex legislation and certifications emanating from different political, commercial, and social arenas. It’s also an incredibly complex issue which will only be remedied through ambitious collaboration, which we recently witnessed slowly budding at the UN COP21 talks. At the end of the day, Jensen’s statement that “responsible management and traceable supply chains create a more robust business” was a key and immediate point that was picked up on by brands in attendance and at the podium. The 2015 Nordic Fashion Action plan was cited as an exemplar of how we can take a business driven approach to cleaning up the industry, rewarding sustainable development, and creating competitive advantages for responsible businesses.
European commissioner Elzbieta Bienkowska also made some strong points when she discussed some of the challenges we’re facing, that “too many people don’t want to see the negative side of the industry,” and that there is much to do when it comes to educating the industry and consumers, and providing transparent information so they can make informed decisions. She said that we must act on three levels – consumers, authorities, and industry, and that we must do it in “a coordinated and complimentary way”. Currently, the European Commission is aiming to adopt a circular economy model, therefore pushing the importance of developing high quality recycling systems for textiles, and the EU Garment Initiative will look into transparency, traceability, and supply chains.
A further series of speeches was delivered by leaders in the industry including Rick Ridgeway from Patagonia, Nike’s Chief Sustainability Officer Hannah Jones, Eco-Age founder Livia Firth, Vanessa Friedman of the New York Times, and H&M’s Head of Sustainability Anna Gedda. The day also included debates and discussions looking at the power of the media, the future of fashion, and philanthropy in the fashion industry among other topics.
We heard diverse examples of approaches to sustainability, from Patagonia’s mission statement to make the best product possible, causing no unnecessary harm – importantly recognizing that the creation of new products will always create harm, but that it’s our responsibility to limit this as much as we possibly can, to the idea that “durable design is the most important factor in decreasing the impact of a product”, as environmental impact of products can be seen to decrease as their useable lifetime increases.

Hannah Jones, Nike. Image source: Copenhagen Fashion Summit
Hannah Jones from Nike shared a range of interesting ideas, starting with the view that “there is nothing with more potential than sustainable innovation,” with the Paris agreements moving us from ‘if’ to ‘how’. She went on to say that “we must redesign our industry to reach that 2 degree goal,” for which “incrementalism and efficiency measures will not get us there; less bad is not good enough. Innovation and collaboration are needed on an unprecedented scale.” She went on to ask “instead of making today less bad, how do we design the future we want? What if we could unlock innovation for the planet and the business as a result of this work?” These were important points to raise, but one question that did sit a bit uneasily was “can we double our business while halving our impact?” She asked how can we reconcile consumption with a 2 degree world, but surely we must agree that reducing consumption and moving away from a growth focused business model is going to be essential to get us there? She shared a several more interesting points, from the need to forget the linear and move towards a circular economy model, to the need to rethink the role of designers, methods of make, and materials, and that “for sustainability to be transformative, it must be built in to what we create and how we design from the very beginning.” Nike are developing a new palette of low impact and regenerating materials, in a bid to move away from materials’ current dependency on land, water, and oil, and their work with the Sustainable Apparel Coalition’s Higg Index acts as an important exemplar to the industry on how we can assess and minimise the impact of materials. Regarding performance of materials and manufacturing, and especially human impact, she stated that “together, we have to turn compliance in to a licence to operate, this has to become the norm not the exception.”
Another brand leading the industry in both sales and sustainability communication is H&M, represented at the summit by Head of Sustainability, Anna Gedda. Gedda shared H&M’s goal to become 100% circular – though exactly how and when this will be achieved remains unclear. H&M, along with Kering, have co-funded Worn Again to develop a recycling technology which would enable entire garments made of mixed fibres and components to be chemically recycled and turned into new fabrics, which H&M hopes will become the norm in its collections – this is an exciting development we have our eye on, but again knowing how and when it could be integrated in to the fashion system as a whole is as yet unknown. This system could go some way to answer Gedda’s question regarding 2050’s expected global population of 9 billion people – “will there be enough water, land, and resources to create clothes for these people? They’ll want to express themselves through fashion too, will they just not be allowed to?” It could certainly help with raw material constraints, however, it still doesn’t move us away from a fast fashion system of exponential consumption of products, which needs to be urgently addressed.

The Future of Fashion panel. Image source: Copenhagen Fashion Summit
From Imran Ahmed of The Business of Fashion we heard that he sees conversations around sustainability taking place between businesses and consumers, but “what’s missing is a real understating of the gravity of the situation. The change that we all need to happen won’t happen until the consumer, and companies, and government really understand the gravity of situation.” The conversation is happening, but it’s just not urgent enough. Vogue Australia’s Editor-in-Chief Edwina McCann shared her view that “value needs to be redefined – we have a disposable sales culture. Value needs to be about great design, who made this, how does it make you feel?” With a reassessment on how we value products, and a clearer understanding of the impact of our choices, consumption could move to a far more responsible and considered place. To assist this understanding, companies like Selfridges are demanding transparency from their brands, requiring brands to sign up to the supply chain traceability platform Sedex, not to directly tell customers what they think, but to “open up the debate.”
A speech which really hit home was given by Livia Firth quite early in the day, who passionately called out fast fashion for its role in fueling the flames of inequality and environmental degradation. She said that ideally two years on from Rana Plaza we would be looking at a reformed industry, and that we cannot and must not draw a veil over the catastrophe, “especially when brands export exactly the same production model to different developing countries. That cannot be the sum-total of our ambition. That was not the intention.” Three years after signing the Bangladesh Accord, some signatories still have not acted on their pledges, and according to Firth, “the current model will not get us to the point we want to get to – where producers are in partnership with brands, not in servitude to them.” This was echoed by Linda Greer from the National Resources Defense Council when she said that developing countries have no capacity to deal with the issues such as carbon emissions caused by global brands setting up manufacturing hubs. The government of Vietnam itself admitted that 90% of its industrial parks don’t treat waste water. The speed at which the industry is jumping between ill-equipped developing countries has put us in “a race to the bottom through globalization.” This will hopefully be a wake-up call to all those companies who may or may not be making strides in terms of sustainability improvements, but are still centrally focused on the bottom line.

During the upcoming United Nations Conference on Climate Change, COP21, Paris will play host to some of the most influential and powerful people in the world, just some of the individuals and groups who have the power to help move us towards meeting the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals.
Countries around the world have been invited to adopt this set of goals to ‘end poverty, protect the planet, and ensure prosperity for all as part of a new sustainable development agenda’. Each goal has set targets to achieve over the next 15 years, with goals ranging from ending poverty and hunger and ensuring education is available to all, to promoting sustainable agriculture, ending biodiversity loss and ensuring sustainable consumption and production patterns.
These goals have been formulated to guide people in repairing, caring for and creating a better, more resilient world to live in for generations to come, and they require the input and cooperation of everyone if we’re to come close to achieving them – these goals aren’t just for politicians and governments, but for communities and individuals too.
Significantly, any and all of these goals can be applied to the fashion industry; as one of the biggest employers, producers, and polluters of any global industry, fashion touches everyone – from those who make it to those who wear it. As such, we all have a part to play in ensuring it becomes a fairer, cleaner industry.
With this in mind, of particular interest to us at The Sustainable Angle are the goals to ‘promote sustainable agriculture’, and to ‘protect, restore and promote sustainable use of terrestrial ecosystems, sustainably manage forests, combat desertification, and halt and reverse land degradation and halt biodiversity loss.’
These particularly concern us because with cotton and polyester accounting for over 80% of global textile production annually, we’re at a critical point of dwindling natural resources, water depletion and contamination, loss of soil fertility, a morbidly excessive use of synthetic pesticides and fertilisers, and an over dependency on oil from the creation of plastics, synthetic fibres and more. This is affecting communities and economies as well as our planet and resources.
It is possible to contribute to change though. Via the Future Fabrics Expo, we have spent years researching, exploring and showcasing some of the most exciting, and some of the most humble sustainable alternatives to cotton and polyester. We have curated a growing collection of beautiful fabrics from around the world that have been created with respect for people and planet, from organic cotton grown without the use of chemicals, to bast fibres like hemp and linen which can be grown with little or no chemical or water input, and innovations including recycled polyester and leather alternatives made from bi-product pineapple leaf fibre.
There are so many wonderful material alternatives available which could help move us towards these goals, so we’re encouraging designers and makers to shoppers and sellers to find out about the way the materials they choose have been made, and to ask how can they be made more sustainably? Instead of buying a standard cotton garment, look for GOTS or Soil Association certified organic cotton to ensure the cleanest production standards possible, or seek out recycled or Fairtrade materials to support reuse of waste and fair trading standards for global communities respectively. There are dozens of ways to make a positive impact, and you can find out even more about sustainability, certifications and material choices on www.futurefabricsvirtualexpo.com.
Next time you’re thinking of designing, making, buying or using something, you absolutely have the power to help contribute to these goals.
Written by Charlotte Turner
Originally posted on the Fashion Future Network, join the conversation here.
written by Charlotte Turner
We recently had the pleasure of welcoming Leatherteq to the London College of Fashion, to debut their innovative Litehide technology for the first time in the UK. The Sustainable Angle’s director Amanda Johnston hosted the evening lecture, led by Desmond Ko of Leatherteq with guest speaker Morgaine McGee, Vice President Product Development for Signal Brands, one of the world’s largest global distributors for leather accessories.
The lecture was designed to engage both students, and those already working in industry, with what’s involved in earlier often forgotten stages of the leather supply chain, and to find out ways we can reduce the impacts caused by existing leather preservation processes. Litehide offers a solution, as an innovative patented system designed to address the regulatory and environmental challenges now faced by the global leather industry, through reducing the impact, and increasing the performance of hide preservation.
We spoke to Desmond Ko, Leatherteq Limited’s Director, to find out more about the inspiration behind Litehide, and the impact it is set to have on the leather industry.
TSA: Can you tell us what was the motivation to develop Litehide?
DK: Salt is currently the main method of preserving hides. About 20lbs of salt is typically used per hide. The used salt is contaminated with biological waste material. Salt, when introduced in high quantities is detrimental to both subterranean and ground fresh water supplies. This is a problem associated with the leather industry that has not been truly addressed. Litehide is an alternative method of preservation that completely eliminates the need for salt and therefore the salt pollution issue associated with it.
TSA: We think it’s important to be clear about the language we use, so is there a way you define ‘sustainability’ in relation to your work?
DK: I think more in terms of sustainable development rather than sustainability.
Borrowing a definition from the International Institute for Sustainable Development, “Sustainable development is development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs. It contains within it two key concepts:
Litehide addresses both concepts as:
TSA: With this in mind, can you tell us a bit about your goals for Litehide?
DK: We have a simple goal, that is, to replace salted hides with Litehide on a global scale. To achieve that, we start with meatpackers (whom harvest the hides and traditionally salt them). Now we also share this idea with brands that collectively have the commercial authority to demand greener hides for their leather.
TSA: From the outside it looks like Litehide wasn’t a straightforward innovation to develop – how has it has evolved since its inception?
DK: The vision and the strategy of the business has largely remained the same. That is to license the technology. I think the evolution is for the people that work within the company. Most of us have business or finance backgrounds. It has been a challenge for us to learn the leather business. That goes for the whole supply chain from meat packers to fashion brands. The learning curve has been steep but we have had fantastic support all along….
Luckily, Litehide, the product, has not needed to evolve from its original concept. We and our partners continue to find benefits and advantages as a better form of the same raw material.
Left to Right: Salted Hide, Wet Blue, LiteHide™ , Crust (unfinished Leather)TSA: Can you tell us about any positive impact you have seen as a result of Litehide technology?
DK: We know we are impacting positively upon the global environment. Particularly rewarding is how well received Litehide is from meatpackers, tanners through to brands (these include automotive, upholstery, shoes, clothing and handbags companies). Our partners appreciate the sustainability credentials, supply chain and cost savings….
TSA: Litehide is a very specific solution for an early stage of the leather supply chain. What do you think are the most pressing environmental and social challenges in the leather industry?
DK: Perhaps correctly, the world has largely focused on the tanners being the main polluting party. Most tanners are attempting to adopt the 3Rs (Reuse, Reduce, Recycle). Hence, they are able to “do something” with the tanning chemicals. However, typically 60% of the total dissolved solids of a tanner’s effluent stream come from the salt used in preservation, which they do not have much control over. Hence a technology like Litehide will help both at source (the meatpackers), at the tanner and resulting in greener leathers for the brands.
TSA: Do you think there are any aspects the industry needs to improve on overall?
Not so much things for the industry to improve upon but matters for the industry to consider. I think it is unusual for someone to have access across the entire leather supply chain. We have been privileged. We see a few recurring themes….
TSA: Industry is slow to change the way things are done and the impact we are having. What do you think can be done to become a more sustainable and less harmful industry?
DK: Thinking about leather, two quick fixes spring to mind. Addressing chemicals used in preservation and tanning goes a long way. Brands and consumers understanding the beauty of individual animals (with their natural flaws and all) and hence using more of the hide rather than discarding the flaws….
TSA: Can you tell us about your plans moving forward?
DK: We are a new growing business. One thing we have not been doing is marketing. The lecture at London College of Fashion in March was our first “public” Litehide event. Now that we have signed up clients that will have product in the market in 2015, we are preparing to be more public about Litehide in the second half of this year.
TSA: And finally, how can industry professionals and consumers get involved and engage with the work you are doing?
DK: The reality is that consumers buy finished articles and the brands source finished leather. It would be ideal if both parties can consider the leather’s origins, which in this case is the often imperfect hide and how much of a miracle tanners perform in turning these into seamless articles.
The easiest way to get involved is to contact us. We are reachable via our website www.litehide.com
written by Charlotte Turner
The brand new SCAP Extending the Life of Clothes Design Awards (SCAP ELC Awards) is looking for designers to develop innovative solutions to clothes that are wearable for longer. The winner will receive £5,000 and the opportunity to progress their work and develop it for a commercial market.
SCAP ELC Awards is being brought to you by WRAP, the organisation behind the Sustainable Clothing Action Plan (SCAP) and Love Your Clothes, with support from Defra, British Fashion Council, The Knowledge Transfer Network, InnovateUK and ModeConnect.
The SCAP ELC Awards will challenge designers to address the key reasons for garment failure, which lead to items being thrown away. The concepts not only need to achieve solutions to longer life times, but also deliver ideas that are fashionable and saleable.
‘Extending the life of clothes’ is a key focus for the sector commitment, SCAP 2020, with many retailers, brands and even reprocessers signed up to it; all aiming to reduce the environmental impacts of clothes. (SCAP 2020 signatories and supporters include Stella McCartney, ASOS, John Lewis, M&S, Ted Baker and Whistles.)
Marcus Gover, WRAP Director and ELC Awards judge, said: “This is a great opportunity for designers to bring this issue to life. By applying their creativity and innovation to either sourcing or developing low impact, high quality fibres, and engineering garments that will last longer, they can instigate real change.
“We need the sector to embrace this new approach to designing clothes.”
Resources Management Minister Dan Rogerson said: “I’m delighted to support the launch of this award which celebrates the vital role designers have to play in developing and promoting sustainable fashion. Their innovations can bring us closer to a more circular economy which will benefit both businesses and the environment.”
All submissions will be assessed by a panel of judges made up of industry professionals and academics that collectively hold a wide range of knowledge and expertise in the sector, including The Sustainable Angle’s curator and educational consultant Amanda Johnston, who is also a Lecturer at the London College of Fashion.
All interested applicants must register by 24 November 2014. For details on how to register and to view the full awards brief and supporting information please visit www.wrap.org.uk/scap-elc-awards.
Follow the progress and get involved on Twitter by using #design4longevity.
written by Charlotte Turner
For those who couldn’t make it (and those who could), we wanted to share news about the 4th Future Fabrics Expo, which was just successfully hosted for the second time inside Fashion SVP at London Olympia. We were visited by hundreds of fashion and textiles professionals, as well as students who will soon be bringing this sustainable sourcing knowledge to jobs throughout the industry.
If you missed the expo, you can still visit www.futurefabricsvirtualexpo.com all year round to discover a wide range of the fabrics on display at the expo, plus tools and resources to help on the journey to reducing the environmental impact of your supply chain. You can also get in touch to discuss tailored hands on workshops and presentations for your company or event.
This was a record year for the Future Fabrics Expo, which received over a thousand registrations from leading high street, luxury and start up brands, as well as educational, government, and NGO organisations, showing that there is most certainly a growing desire to understand and learn about what our clothes are made of.
The Future Fabrics Expo was shown to be a key platform for showcasing both sustainable textiles, and initiatives and tools from a range of organisations such as WRAP’s Knowledge Hub, String3 by Historic Futures, and ground-breaking research projects from the Royal College of Art and London College of Fashion.
A key focus for the 4th Future Fabrics Expo was on supply chain traceability, showcasing mapping and connecting tools from Historic Futures, and the FireUP project from UAL. In addition, Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) was showcased, resulting in a broad showcase of projects and tools addressing all areas of the textile and fashion value chain. Examples of CmiA fabrics from some of their dozens of member producers were on show – you can find a full list of CmiA producers via their website.
We additionally presented a seminar on ‘building sustainabiltiy into your textile buying’, exploring how to assess fabrics in relation to sustainability, avoiding pitfalls when sourcing sustainably, and developments of the sustainable textiles market.
This year the expo was generously sponsored by Kassim Denim and Elmer & Zweifel, also sponsors of the Future Fabrics Virtual Expo (www.futurefabricsvirtualexpo.com), our online sustainable fabrics sourcing tool available throughout the year.
If you are looking to source sustainable fabrics in low quantities, we will soon launch a fabrics sourcing pool hosted on www.futurefabricsvirtualexpo.com, to allow smaller companies and emerging designers to purchase fabrics with a reduced environmental impact at manageable quantities. The launch will be announced via our periodic newsletter in the coming weeks so sign up now to make sure you don’t miss out – we’ll also be sharing information about the latest fabrics to be added to the Future Fabrics Virtual Expo.
The 4th Future Fabrics Expo was generously sponsored by Kassim Textiles and Elmer & Zweifel.
written by Charlotte Turner
With only days to go before the 4th Future Fabrics Expo opens at London Olympia Exhibition Centre (28th-30th September), we’re looking forward to showcasing some other organisations that are doing important work in the field of sustainable fashion and textiles, along with our core showcase of globally sourced reduced impact fabrics.
One of these organisations is Historic Futures, who have spent more than 10 years exploring value chain transparency and traceability. This work is integral to knowing more about where our products come from, how they are made, and the impact they are having on both the environment and on global communities.
Historic Futures are currently developing String3, so we spoke to co-founder and director Tim Wilson to find out more, and we found what he had to say so interesting that you can read it in full here.
TSA: What was the motivation to start Historic Futures and to work on improving supply chain transparency?
HF: I had been working in the value chain / traceability area for many years and realised there were no solutions focusing simply on getting reliable data from the whole chain without linking to specific product or production systems (e.g. organic). The triggering event – to actually get started – was a conversation with Nike that demonstrated how difficult it was to collect reliable data from the value chain.
TSA: Historic Futures makes it possible for companies to collect and manage value chain data – can you tell us a bit about how you do this?
The basic concept is very simple, and is analogous to situations we all face everyday. I need to speak to somebody at Company X about their new product, but I don’t have their contact details. I could ask my colleague sitting next to me, who has read about Company X, what they know about this new product and just go with that. It’s really quick and easy, and they probably know more than I do. But if I want to rely on the information – to write an article in the press, or to use in a presentation perhaps, then I’d want to speak to someone who really knows, inside Company X. It’s the same problem with value chains. I need to know the country of origin of the raw materials used in my product – because my brand has made a commitment on this, or because the law now requires me to know. I could ask my supplier – who sells me the finished goods – that’s quick and easy and they probably know more that I do, but I can’t rely on the information. Our String3 system fixes that problem – I send my question to my supplier inside String3, and it provides the tools for my supplier to send it on to their supplier. There might have been several suppliers and even they don’t actually work with the raw materials. String3 makes it simple for everyone to keep passing the question on until it gets to those who really know the answer. Sounds very simple, in reality the system is quite sophisticated – making sure that only the answer to the question is ever shared, not the details of each actor in the chain, keeping people informed of progress, benchmarking performance and so on.
TSA: You’re currently developing the newest phase of String, what will this be able to offer clients?
HF: String3 – the service we are working on now – will make it simple and efficient for people to find information about how and where their products were made. It will save them time and provide answers which are more reliable than other methods. Interestingly it will also provide a means to benchmark supplier performance – clearly identifying which suppliers and value chains are good at providing this information, driving continuous improvement. Crucially for suppliers, the service can be used free of charge and it does not disclose sourcing details to customers – so suppliers can confidently use the system to help their customers get answers to legitimate questions about raw material country of origin or value chain certification status.
TSA: We’re looking forward to showcasing Historic Futures at the Future Fabrics Expo, which is geared towards the fashion and textiles industries – can you tell us about some of the work you have done in these industries?
HF: We’ve been working in fashion and textiles for nearly 12 years – since the very beginnings of HF. During that time we have delivered projects for many of the world’s leading brands. Those projects have ranged from strategy formulation to large scale data collection and reporting – all focused on value chain mapping, to understand how and where products were made.
TSA: Are there some positive impacts you have seen from your work that you can tell us about?
HF: We’ve seen benefits across the entire value chain from better, bolder claims about finished goods for brands, to improved relationships between supplier and customer for sourcing agents, to improved inventory control and “right first time” rates for manufacturers. We’ve seen suppliers get new business through being able to deliver value chain information and improved efficiency in differentiated raw materials such as organic cotton or recycled polyester. There are many ways that reliable value chain data can deliver benefits, but the area that seems to be the most consistent across geographies and sectors is this ability to obtain reliable data – when needed – for products that contain raw materials where country of origin or compliance with some 3rd party standard is important.
TSA: What do you think are the biggest obstacles with incorporating more sustainable materials into supply chains of different sized companies?
HF: Sustainable materials is a difficult term – I’m not sure anybody really knows what it means – but there are clearly important choices to be made about materials and production processes in terms of the impact they have on people, planet and profit. For buyers, understanding what’s in your product – and whether it’s what you specified – is a critical first step. For suppliers, being able to demonstrate good practice and regulatory compliance throughout the value chain quickly and efficiently is vital if better performing materials are to become mainstream.
You can learn about String3 at the 4th Future Fabrics Expo on 28th – 30th September at Olympia Exhibition Centre, London. We’ll be showcasing the work of several organisations and projects, as well as hundreds of individually sourced and researched materials with a reduced environmental impact.
Register for free here
written by Charlotte Turner
Kassim Denim is a pioneering vertically integrated denim mill from Pakistan, and long time supporter of the Future Fabrics Expo and The Sustainable Angle. Kassim Denim develop, innovate, and produce an extensive range of denims, many made with organic cotton and cellulosic fibres, finished using low impact processes.
Kassim Denim have worked with some of the world’s leading denim brands, so we has a conversation with Sohail Ahmed, Kassim Denim’s market developer, to find out the latest news on what the company is doing to reduce it’s environmental impact, and instead create positive change for the company and the environment that hosts it.
Read the full conversation below, and discover a range of Kassim Denim sustainable fabrics at www.futurefabricsvirtualexpo.com.
TSA: Can you tell us what your role is, and how you are involved in improving sustainability within your company, and in the textiles industry?
KD: As a market developer it’s my task to keep our administration updated on matters of sustainability, whether it be sustainable processing, or sustainable raw materials like yarns, dyes and chemicals.
TSA: What first inspired Kassim Denim to start working on improving sustainability in the textiles industry?
KD: Our motivation… “Sustainable, environmentally responsible, green management” are the key factors to Kassim Denim’s endeavors to produce the best denim fabrics while maintaining the true essentials of being eco-friendly, to match up with the drive to consumer product sustainability.
Each of these three perspectives is an integral part of our commitment for integration of an environmental and social lens into core operational and financial management — from material sourcing through product design, manufacturing, distribution, delivery and end-of-life management.
We travail to implement sustainability-focused initiatives along our entire supply chain, both upstream and downstream.
Kassim Denim at the Future Fabrics Expo, 2013TSA: Can you tell us a bit about what Kassim Denim is doing to be more sustainable?
KD: We keep a stringent vigilance to environmental, health and safety-driven issues, and always take immediate initiative on new regulations like restricting toxic chemicals, innovations in toxic disposal etc. We have committed ourselves to minimize our carbon footprint, in addition to other major concerns such as energy use, material and water resource use, and waste management.
TSA: What do you hope your initiatives and products will change and improve?
KD:
TSA: What do you think are the most pressing environmental and social challenges in the industry currently?
KD: We look at the impact textile production has on global climate change. We equate climate change with our own lives and base this on studies of just how the changes will impact us directly, that wet regions will be wetter, causing flash flooding; dry regions will get drier, resulting in drought. And … a heat wave that used to occur once every 100 years now happens every five years. Most of the current focus on the carbon footprint revolves around transportation and heating issues, and the modest little fabric all around seems to be unseen. But we at Kassim Textiles see it as a gigantic carbon footprint. The textile industry is the 3rd largest contributor to CO2 emissions in Pakistan, after primary metals and nonmetallic products and their exhausts.
TSA: What do you think is the biggest obstacle to becoming a more sustainable and less harmful industry?
KD: The biggest obstacle to sustainability is greed. The race to make more and more money with minimum expenses. And to top it all the total lack of respect of the nature and turning a blind eye to the future of this planet.
TSA: What positive developments have you seen in the industry over the years?
KD: In the years I have been working here at Kassim and also observing industrial changes, though very slow paced, there is a definite awaking to the realities of the dangers to the environment. The bodies working for environmental protection have gained the voice to bring their point to the consumers, who in turn are now demanding eco-friendly and sustainable products from the producers.
TSA: In your opinion, will it be the consumer who will facilitate the change in the supply chain, or will it be the design and manufacturing industry?
KD: Designing and manufacturing is always dependent on the consumers wants and demands, hence it’s the consumer who will initiate the want, and the manufacturer shall have to cater to these demands.
Kassim Denim can be seen at the Future Fabrics Expo on 28th – 30th September, London, and all year round on www.futurefabricsvirtualexpo.com.
They can also be visited twice a year at several global trade fairs: Texworld, Munich Fabric Start, Premier Vision China, Premier Vision Istanbul, and Bangladesh Show (Dhaka).
Kassim Denim are generous sponsors of the Future Fabrics Virtual Expo, and the Future Fabrics Expo, 28th – 30th September, London.
written by Charlotte Turner
As one of the companies featured on our sustainable textiles sourcing website Future Fabrics Virtual Expo, we wanted to introduce natural dye studio Bougainvillea Couture, which was founded in 2011 by UK based and renowned textile designer Luiven Rivas-Sanchez. Bougainvillea Couture produces limited edition ranges of sustainable luxurious fashion accessories, ensembles and fabrics using premium natural materials, responsibly and globally sourced from all over the world.
We spoke with Luiven to find out more about Bougainvillea Couture, sustainability in relation to textiles production and finishing, and what needs to improve in the fashion and textile industry.
Luiven explained that “Bougainvillea Couture engages in holistic and generative textile processes that transcend design trends. We work with a dedicated team of textile experts, designers, artists and practitioners. Together, we source the finest fabrics worldwide to selectively and sustainably hand dye and treat cloth. With craftsmanship and intimacy at the helm, every fabric and accessory created under the Bougainvillea Couture label, meets with uncompromising standards of sustainable assurance and ethical excellence, key factors we believe have been stripped away by a fashion industry with imperatives leaning towards speed and low cost.”
You can read the full conversation below…
TSA: What was the motivation to start Bougainvillea Couture?
BC: Being trained in design, the motivation to found Bougainvillea Couture was firstly based mainly on aesthetics. However, as we became more aware of textile pollution, our design ethos and rationale consequently changed.
TSA: How has your work with natural dyes evolved since its inception?
BC: Our work with natural dyes has come a long way. We are in a position to develop dyeing strategies and invest in lower impact methods of fabric production. It is a team effort that requires constant research and nourishment.
TSA: What first inspired you to start working on improving sustainability in the fashion / textiles industries?
BC: Colour, and the way it can be used to improve textile dyeing strategies without compromising the environment.
TSA: Can you explain how do you classify ‘sustainability’ in relation to your work?
BC: At Bougainvillea Couture, we aim to be as innovative and sustainable as we possibly can, for us sustainability means the ability to design and produce high end fabrics using low impact dyeing methods and techniques.
TSA: Can you provide an outline of your project?
BC: Our project is based on long term ideals. We have a vision to develop a range of sustainable fabrics and fashion accessories for men and women using sustainable guidelines. We work closely with practitioners and suppliers and have huge respect for them. It is part of the sustainable strategy we support, and one of the reasons that makes us proud of what we do and produce.
TSA: What do you hope the work of Bougainvillea Couture will improve in the industry?
BC: Because of the amount of chemical dyeing processes remaining unchanged, with critical high levels of pollution still affecting our eco-systems, we hope that our revised dyeing guidelines will eventually make a difference.
TSA: Can you tell us about any positive impact you have seen from your work?
BC: Yes, the way our customer base see textiles through our work is slowly changing. They understand more about how it is made and are more respectful of our ideals and goals.
TSA: What do you think are the most pressing environmental and social challenges in the industry currently?
BC: Chemical pollution is still top of the agenda, the elevated cost of sustainable organic materials, and lack of respect towards the lower tier members of the supply chain continue to negatively affect the industry. Practical and feasible changes are needed to achieve higher standards of textile and social sustainability.
TSA: What would you like to see happen more in the fashion and textiles industries?
BC: We would like more comprehensive dialogue and collaborations between textile manufacturers, suppliers, scientists, designers and consumers.
TSA: Are there any common misconceptions about sustainability in fashion and textiles that you’d like to talk about?
BC: There is this huge misconception that sustainability is fashion exclusive and part of a trend. To us, sustainability means consumption in dire need of reassessment, purely to avoid further environmental disasters, if not for us, for future generations. To widely address and embrace sustainable issues, the industry and consumers need to take a more holistic approach to clothing.
TSA: Do you see designers and practitioners becoming more sustainable in your eyes, and how?
BC: The potential is huge, but only if their general views of sustainability are pragmatic and their goals are realistically achievable, slow and long term planning is part of our mantra.
TSA: In your opinion, who will primarily facilitate change in the supply chain?
BC: We believe the biggest onus lies within the manufacturing industry, but designers need to work closely with them, it needs to be a symbiotic relationship. The consumer tends to be price driven.
TSA: Do you have any events or courses coming up where people can connect with you?
BC: Yes, we have started running sustainable dyeing workshops, and have plans to develop and expand on this.
You can see a range of Bougainvillea Couture’s naturally hand dyed fabrics on the Future Fabrics Virtual Expo. Keep an eye on the blog and twitter for news of upcoming sustainable dyeing workshops.
written by Charlotte Turner
As the researcher and project manager at The Sustainable Angle, I was recently invited to present a sustainable sourcing workshop to fashion start-up companies at the Fashion and Textiles Museum in London, as part of the Creative Hub project led by the Centre for Sustainable Fashion. I was delighted to take part to provide guidance on sourcing more sustainably, alongside a tailored series of talks on design strategy, manufacturing, and brand values and communication.
The Creative Hub is a new business-mentoring scheme run from the Fashion and Textiles Museum, with the Centre for Sustainable Fashion offering tailored business support to 30 fashion businesses over the next year. They selected “beneficiaries with an interest in and commitment to doing things differently, those who are willing and able to explore and instigate new business models; those with genuine creative flair and those who understand that good business involves 360 vision.”
This one-day workshop was designed to provide a snapshot analysis of the opportunities sustainability can provide for a new business, and the starting points for integrating sustainability into the design and business planning process.
As materials are often the starting point when considering sustainability in a design business, the sustainable sourcing session delivered by The Sustainable Angle provided simple framework for sustainable materials and supplier sourcing, as well as showcasing over a hundred sustainable textiles samples. The presentation included:
It is exciting to see the diverse and boundary pushing ideas being explored by start-ups and small businesses, and so we hope that initiatives like Creative Hub, and sustainable sourcing platforms like the Future Fabrics Expo and online Future Fabrics Virtual Expo will continue to equip designers, buyers, product developers and more with the knowledge, resources and skills needed to run their businesses in the most sustainable ways possible.
written by Charlotte Turner
I recently attended the SOURCE Summit hosted by the Ethical Fashion Forum at the Human Rights Action Centre at Amnesty International HQ, to find out about some of the latest developments in ethical and sustainable fashion. The day was focused around 3D profit, discussing how you can link financial profit with positive social and environmental impact.
Photography by Rachel Mann“We believe that business is changing, it’s in part due to external pressures but what I find most relevant about the topic today is that there is a real business case to investing in sustainable reform,” Summerly Horning from Tau Investment Management.
Photography by Rachel MannAfter a range of panel discussions and break up sessions discussing topics ranging from accounting to production, the day wrapped up with a panel discussion chaired by Baronness Lola Young of Hornsey about the future of the fashion industry and how it might achieve “3D” success. Dr. Maximilian Martin, founder of Impact Economy and one of the panelists summed it up by saying:
“The textile and garment industry has a role to play, you are innovators and many of you are operating boutique businesses that are working with really interesting ideas about shared products, long value chains, etc. I think many of the things that you’re working on have much more potency to drive wider change than you realize.“
written by Charlotte Turner
Elmer & Zweifel, a German textiles company founded in 1855, have been showcased in the Future Fabrics Expo by The Sustainable Angle since 2012 due to their extensive range of high quality certified organic cotton fabrics, which are available in both small and large quantities. In addition to retail and wholesale finished fabrics, they also produce greige goods and their own brand of organic cotton products called Cotonea. A selection of their fabrics can now be viewed on the Future Fabrics Virtual Expo.
We spoke to Linda Schall from Elemer & Zweifel to find out more.
Elmer & Zweifel: organic cotton plantations in Kirgistan and UgandaElmer & Zweifel have been working towards creating a more sustainable company and product offer for some time, and have extensive knowledge and control of their supply chain. For starters, they have their own organic cotton plantations in Kirgistan and Uganda, with Swiss NGO Helvetas training the farmers in organic agriculture, to produce high quality cotton certified by IMO. The cotton is then spun in Turkey and Germany, and woven and finished in the Czech Republic by Elmer & Zweifel. All stages of the supply chain including wet processing are certified by GOTS.
According to Linda, the original motivation to start offering more sustainable fabrics was “to improve social and environmental factors over the entire textile supply chain.” They also believed that to create better products, transparency had to be established. She says initially they were producing more sustainable textiles based only on demand, but then more and more clients started requesting these products, leading to the introduction of a permanent organic range – testament to the impact designers and buyers can make simply by asking questions and requesting more sustainable materials.
Elmer & Zweifel fabrics in the Future Fabrics ExpoCreating more sustainable products means adapting the normal design and production process, sometimes meaning that added aspects like environmental certifications can make the process take longer, but at the end of the day it is worth it: as Linda says “for us it is important that the whole supply chain is transparent, and we can have an impact all along it.”
As a business, and especially as a business that wishes to continue producing more sustainable textiles, growth is still essential. “It is for example important that the cotton projects in Uganda and Kirgistan that we support are financially viable, and hence, financial turn over needs to increase.” Elmer & Zweifel are seeing increased demand for sustainable textiles, but it is essential that as an industry we continue to seek, develop, and demand more sustainably and ethically produced materials and products.
Linda believes that one of the most pressing challenges in the industry is around ethical and social labour conditions, which need to become fairer, especially in countries such as Bangladesh. In terms of sustainable textiles, one challenge the company has identified is that there are still requests for products which at the moment are not possible to produce in an ecologically sustainable manner, for instance ‘non-iron’ fabrics. However considering the amount of innovation we have been seeing in recent years, it may be only be a matter of time until that is possible.
100% organic cotton chambray. Elmer & Zweifel also produce plain and patterned knitted and woven organic fabrics.Linda summed up by telling us what she thinks is the biggest obstacle to becoming a more sustainable and less harmful industry: “More fashion collections in ever shorter intervals are coming on the market, and this fast turn around of clothes means increased production, more consumption, and more waste of clothes. Therefore, the consumer needs to be made aware much more of the quality of textiles, instead of focusing only on lower prices.”
This approach to consumption, and to a lack of focus on quality, requires an industry and society wide systemic change, in which Elmer & Zweifel believe both the consumer and industry have a part to play. Combining a refined outlook on how we buy and wear fashion, along with the use of higher quality and more sustainable fabrics would certainly have a positive affect on the damage we are causing to our environments and society.
You can find out more about Elmer & Zweifel and see a range of their sustainable fabrics on the Future Fabrics Virtual Expo, which is generously sponsored by Elmer & Zweifel and Kassim Textiles. Elmer & Zweifel will additionally be showcased at the 4th Future Fabrics Expo in London, on 28th – 30th September 2014.
written by Charlotte Turner
Earlier this month we attended the Outdoor Show in Friedrichshafen, Germany, to discover new innovations in performance textiles, and hopefully discover a wide range of materials with a reduced environmental impact. Visitors were greeted by outdoor equipment and clothing manufacturers and brands, as well as dozens of suppliers and manufacturers specialising in outdoor and technical fabrics and finishes, many of whom are certified bluesign® partners.
bluesign® certification is a good sustainability indicator for performance fabrics, as it assesses water effluent, air emissions, energy consumption, worker safety, consumer safety, RSL/chemical residues, and responsible use of resources for textile products, from fibres and yarns to fabrics and final products; components for textile products, chemicals and dyestuffs, and textile processing techniques. The step of so many mills from the sector to work to the bluesign® guidelines showed a positive move towards a less harmful industry.
When talking to the companies it soon became apparent that sustainability is more of a priority in the outdoor and performance industry than in the fashion sector, with brands and mills both making it a priority to reduce their impact on the environment that they are designing for. By showcasing more of these innovations, we aim to showcase even more ways that the fashion textiles sector can lower their impact and improve on their business practices, and by proxy benefit through the reduction of waste and chemical outputs, and the saving of resources.
To round off the trade show, the European Outdoor Group hosted a Sustainability breakfast, which included presentations on topics including the environmental impact of the leather production process, cellulosic fibres, and the EOG’s latest projects. Overall it was positive to see commitment from many suppliers and brands to progress more sustainably, and hopefully seeing the outdoor industry bring greater cohesion to this journey will provide the fashion industry with more positive examples to build on.
A range of sustainable performance and outdoor fabrics can be seen at the Future Fabrics Expo in London, 28th-30th September. Find out more and register here.
You can also visit the Future Fabrics Virtual Expo to view a growing range of sustainable textiles from around the world. Click here to find out more.
written by Charlotte Turner
Considering the abundance of design talent that has been seen recently from fashion graduates around the country, we wanted to share news of a collaboration between The Sustainable Angle, international denim company Kassim Textiles, and the London College of Fashion.
Through the Future Fabrics Expo, The Sustainable Angle facilitated the sponsorship of the latest project from LCF’s MA Fashion Futures course. Kassim Textiles generously sponsored the project by providing sustainable organic denims for the students to visualize their explorations of the parameters and practices used to make and wear fashion.
The projects, including Bodies of Work / Body Cut by Katharina Thiel, and Wearable Data by Caroline Yan Zheng, explored themes surrounding our relationship with fashion and the body (Theil), and engaging in speculative design to catalyse social discussion and debate (Zheng). Zheng and Thiel’s work was displayed in an exhibition at the Garden Museum.
Garden Museum Exhibition, Kat ThielCaroline Yan Zheng said: “As part of the Fashion & Gardens programme at the Garden Museum London, the LCF MA Fashion and Environment course had the opportunity to create garments practicing sustainable approaches. Kassim Textiles kindly supported us with their sustainable denim fabrics.
My personal approach is an on-going project, exercising the practice of speculative design. The aim of the project is to use design as a media to catalyze social discussion and debate over what life could be in the near future, to explore how to create clothes that make people think. The modern economies rely heavily on the development of science and technology, and while there is generally an overwhelming hail of all the benefits brought by them, the other doubtful impacts are less discussed. While clothes’ role in modern economy is normally to encourage consumption, this collection hopes to make people think about their possible form and identity in the manipulation of technologies. The purpose is not to indicate what is right and what is wrong, but only to encourage reflection, to make fashion participate in social debate.
My research on speculative design will carry further to form my masters project, which explores values and identity by visualizing data in 2D and 3D forms, realized in knitwear.”
Work by Caroline Yan ZhiengSohail Ahmed from Kassim Textiles commented that “We at Kassim Textiles always believe in progress, and on this belief when we were approached by the Sustainable Angle to assist the students of LCF, we felt obligated to participate in these projects. This was our way of helping out future tex-perts complete their studies and step into the real world…. I believe that in not the distant future, sustainability will be the major factor.”
You can find out more about Kassim Textiles and their sustainability on the Future Fabrics Virtual Expo, and at the 4th Future Fabrics Expo in September.
written by Charlotte Turner
We are delighted to announce the launch of the updated and enhanced Future Fabrics Virtual Expo, initially developed in 2013 in response to international market demand, reflecting the global increase in interest to source more sustainably, and to extend the lifespan of the successful 3rd Future Fabrics Expo.
The virtual expo gives you a sneak preview ahead of the Future Fabrics Expo (next taking place on 28th– 30th September 2014, London), through year-round online access to a curated range of sustainable fabrics and mills.
Click the image to visit the Future Fabrics Virtual ExpoThe Future Fabrics Virtual Expo is now a more advanced online research and sourcing platform, with increased search capability, and opportunity for direct contact with mills. It can link fabric buyers and designers with international mills, and enable constant access to sourcing and sustainability information about fabrics with a reduced environmental impact.
The fabrics are searchable by categories from fibre type and price, to certification and provenance, and educational background information alongside each fabric makes it a valuable tool for both designers and buyers new to the area of sustainable textiles and materials, as well as those with established sustainable sourcing strategies.
British wool; Low impact fish leather; Organic vegetable dyed silk; Modal satinDiverse global fabrics
An ever expanding range of individually sourced materials from international mills is showcased on the Future Fabrics Virtual Expo, which will also be featured in the 4th Future Fabrics Expo, 28th to 30th September in London, alongside many more from around the world. The virtual expo represents a diverse overview of sustainable fabrics, from organic cotton denim, British wool, and sustainable silks, to linen and organic cotton blends, low impact leather, and woven and knitted organic cotton qualities. In addition, it features new fashion and product innovations from materials lab Materio.
You no longer need to wait until the annual Future Fabrics Expo to discover new sustainable fabrics and mills.
written by Charlotte Turner
At The Sustainable Angle we know how difficult it can sometimes be for small companies to find fabrics which meet your desired sustainability criteria, look fantastic, are affordable, and available in small quantities.
Lebenskleidung, one of the European suppliers we showcase in our sustainable textiles collection, has developed a group sourcing pool to enable designers to source GOTS certified organic fabrics in orders as small as 5m, with the option to dye to specification. Fabrics on offer include organic sweater knits, rib cuffs 2×1, single jersey, velour, polar fleece and flannel. Fabrics are offered at preferential prices due to the group sourcing facility.
The deadline for orders is 16th June 2014, so make sure you order soon. Fabrics will be delivered from the beginning of August 2014.
For more information click here.
You can see a range of Lebenskleidung fabrics at the 4th Future Fabrics Expo on 28 – 30 September 2014 – register for free by clicking here.
written by Charlotte Turner
We’re really pleased to announce the launch of the Future Fabrics Virtual Expo, which has been conceived to extend the lifespan of the successful 3rd Future Fabrics Expo, through year-round online access to a curated range of sustainable fabrics and mills.
Experience the Future Fabrics Virtual Expo at www.futurefabricsvirtualexpo.com
It’s due to great demand from our visitors, readers, and networks that we have developed the first trial version of the virtual expo now, to allow designers and buyers to tap into our resources as a glimpse of what is to come in Spring 2014, when we will launch the second stage of the Virtual Expo, an in-depth and advanced online Future Fabrics Virtual Expo showcasing the dozens of mills usually featured in the annual Future Fabrics Expo.
This first trial version includes six mills which represent a diverse overview of sustainable fabrics, from organic cotton denim, British wool, and sustainable silks, to Lenzing Tencel®, linen and organic cotton blends, low impact leather, European linen, and woven and knitted qualities.
The second version is intended to function as an online tool to link mills with fabrics buyers/designers efficiently, allowing constant access to sourcing and sustainability information about fabrics with a reduced environmental impact, any time, from anywhere. We will be updating the virtual expo seasonally and sharing our insights and finds from the main global textile fairs that we visit. All of this to make it even easier for you to source more sustainably.
You’ll no longer need to wait until the Future Fabrics Expo to discover new sustainable fabrics and mills, and we will be able to more effectively and continuously share the diverse range of fabrics and information that is rigorously researched throughout the year.
We will be collecting feedback about this first version of the Virtual Expo to help us build the second, which will include dozens of mills and hundreds of fabrics, with advanced search capability allowing visitors to search sustainable fabrics by terms including fibre category, environmental certifications, price, and country.
Experience the Future Fabrics Virtual Expo at www.futurefabricsvirtualexpo.com
We hope you’ll check it out and leave us feedback to help improve the next version.
Please visit www.thesustainableangle.org to stay up to date with our latest news, events, and projects.
Future Fabrics Virtual Expo version two, is planned for Spring 2014.
@Sustainable_Ang #FFVirtualExpo
written by Charlotte Turner
We’re pleased to share some fantastic photos of the recent 3rd Future Fabrics Expo which took place inside Fashion SVP at London Olympia Exhibition centre at the end of September. These photos were taken by photographer Evgeniy Kazannik, co-founder of GREEN LENS STUDIOS, the first sustainable photographic studio in the UK. You can see more of these photos on our website.
GREEN LENS STUDIOS recognise that as a business they cannot be 100% eco-friendly, however, they can (and do) seek to minimise their impact on the environment, without interfering with the quality of their professional service.
As well as providing their broad clientele with reasonably-priced, highly energy efficient facilities for photo shoots and art projects, they encourage creative sustainable practice beyond GLS by regularly organising exhibitions and workshops.
You can find out more and contact them on their website.
Visit our website to see more photos from the 3rd Future Fabrics Expo.
written by Charlotte Turner
The Sustainable Angle recently welcomed hundreds of visitors from the fashion industry to the 3rd Future Fabrics Expo, held inside Fashion SVP manufacturing and sourcing fair at the Olympia Exhibition Centre, London, on 22 – 24 September 2013.
The 3rd edition of Fashion SVP was focused on near-shore manufacturing and sourcing from the European and Mediterranean region, and to reflect this the Future Fabrics Expo featured a section dedicated to British produced fabrics, as well as hundreds of European fabrics throughout the expo with a reduced environmental impact. In addition, for the first time the Future Fabrics Expo showcased a section dedicated to low impact leather and leather alternatives.
The expo was generously sponsored by mills and organisations from the textiles, retail solutions and certifications sectors: Kassim Denim, Pratibha Syntex, Swiss Organics, Avery Dennison, and GOTS, showcasing sustainability efforts across the supply chain.
Even if you could not make it to the expo you can visit our website and blog for our latest news, and you can get in touch to discuss tailored workshops for your company.
We will be sharing the latest Future Fabrics Expo video and photos with you soon, and in the coming months we will be releasing a digital version of the expo, so keep in touch.
written by Charlotte Turner
We’re pleased to welcome GOTS (Global Organics Textile Standard) as one of the Future Fabrics Expo sponsors for 2013. GOTS are an ideal organisation to be supported by, as the Future Fabrics Expo has always sought out and showcased innovative fabrics which adhere to the GOTS stringent standards.
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is the leading processing standard for textiles made from organic fibres worldwide. It defines high level environmental criteria along the whole supply chain, as well as compliance with social criteria. More than 3000 companies globally are certified by GOTS.
GOTS develops, implements and promotes a voluntary organic standard that requires social and environmental responsibility at every step of the textile supply chain post-harvest of the cotton on the farm, through manufacture to labelling.
GOTS is not only about cotton, although that is the most important fibre globally, we see it as essential to have standards for other fibres too – organic wool, linen and other fibres can all contribute to a more sustainable organic textile sector, and wool is particularly relevant in the UK.
More than 3000 businesses are now certified to GOTS, from the gins to dyers, to clothing manufacturers and brands all contributing to improving the environment and social/labour conditions wherever they are. There are also over 6000 chemical inputs approved for use in organic processing.
The market for organic textile products continues to grow, in the UK GOTS certified organic textiles have seen continuous growth since the standards were introduced, with licensee sales growth of 10% in 2012 reported by Soil Association Certification Ltd.
You can see more of GOTS at the Future Fabrics Expo on 22nd – 24th September 2013 at Olympia 2, London.
You can find out more and register to attend the Future Fabrics Expo here.
written by Charlotte Turner
Returning to the Future Fabrics Expo this year is Pratibha Syntex, a generous sponsor of the expo for the second year running. Pratibha Syntex are a particularly exciting company to be involved in the expo due to the vision and commitment of their Managing Director, Shreyaskar Chaudhary, and their Manager of Sustainable Initiatives, Jayanti Mishra.
Pratibha Syntex is one of India’s largest vertically integrated knitted textiles suppliers, using organic cotton and recycled fibers. Pratibha partners with over 28,000 farmers across 130 acres of Organic, Fair Trade and BCI cotton.
Pratibha are involved in many sustainability initiatives including the Vasudha Farming Project and the LOOP recycling initiative.
In the last three years Pratibha has invested extensively in sustainable initiatives including a modern waste recycling facility. LOOP describes Pratibha’s initiative to reuse post-production textile and fibre waste. Pratibha refer to it as ‘reinstated fibre’, or fibre that is reintroduced back into a product life-cycle and thereby diverting it from landfill.
During garment manufacturing there are two stages in which a major source of waste is created, bulk garment cutting and spinning fibre waste. Pratibha utilizes these ‘losses’ to recreate beautiful fabrics.
LOOP is a concerted effort to reduce the impact of energy consumption, water consumption, chemical consumption, and fibre sourcing. Aptly derived from ‘close loop recycling’ system, LOOP utilizes all forms of fibre including post production ‘waste’ in an effort to achieve zero waste manufacturing.
You can see more of Pratibha Syntex at the Future Fabrics Expo on 22nd – 24th September 2013 at Olympia 2, London.
You can find out more and register to attend the Future Fabrics Expo here.
written by Charlotte Turner
Swiss Organics have been a regular at the Future Fabrics Expo for the last 3 years, so we’re delighted that we’ll be showcasing them again this year as a sponsor.
Swiss Organics is an umbrella organisation representing Swiss mills producing organic cottons: Cilander, Hausammann & Moos, Jenny Fabrics, Johan Muller, Weba Weberei Appenzell, Hermann Buhler.
All fabrics are manufactured within a 100km radius in Switzerland and every production company involved in the manufacture of these textiles, from yarn production via weaving to finishing, is certified compliant with the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). All Swiss Organics companies are also STeP certified (formerly Öeko-Tex Standard 1000) which assures the sustainability production facilities throughout the supply chain. CO2 emissions are reduced to an absolute minimum with voluntary CO2 reduction efforts.
Only the finest certified organic extra long staple PIMA Cotton is used, mainly grown in the USA. The majority of water used in this cotton comes from rain water reservoirs. All Swiss Organics fabrics meet GOTS certification at every step of the supply chain.
All the production steps, except for cotton growing, take place in Switzerland – Made in Switzerland.
You can see more of Pratibha Syntex at the Future Fabrics Expo on 22nd – 24th September 2013 at Olympia 2, London.
You can find out more and register to attend the Future Fabrics Expo here.
written by Charlotte Turner
The Sustainable Angle is pleased to welcome Kassim Denim back to the Future Fabrics Expo, after showcasing the global denim company once before in the 2012 edition. This year the expo will be hosted inside Fashion SVP at Olympia, London, on 22nd – 24th September, and Kassim Denim are generously supporting the 3rd edition of the Future Fabrics Expo as a core sponsor. Their ongoing research and developments add a great deal to the global sustainable denim market and we look forward to showcasing their latest innovations.
Kassim Denim use primarily natural fibres to create their denims, combining certified organic cotton with linen and cellulosic fibres such as Lenzing Tencel to create beautiful and diverse denims for the international fashion market.
Kassim Denim have achieved a wide range of internationally recognised environmental certifications including GOTS, Oeko-Tex, and OE100, and will have a range of their denims showcased in the Future Fabrics Expo on 22nd – 24th September at Fashion SVP.
You can register to attend the Future Fabrics Expo here.
written by Charlotte Turner
Over the past two years the Future Fabrics Expo has achieved a winning combination of increasing the visibility of innovative textiles, and promoting and communicating textiles with a lower environmental impact to designers, buyers, press and global organisations, in a setting that is designed and curated to introduce textiles for the future with a lower environmental impact in a jargon-free manner. So this year we are looking forward to bringing the expo right to those designers and buyers at the forefront of the industry, by presenting the expo as part of Fashion SVP, the leading event specialising in near-shore fashion manufacturing.
Fashion SVP will take place at Olympia Exhibition Centre, London, on 22nd – 24th September 2013. Fashion SVP, established in 2011, is now expanding to encompass over 15 European and Euro-Med countries, including a healthy UK percentage, to make up a spread of over 70 companies from full-service to CMT, able to produce ladies’, men’s and children’s wear knitted and woven collections. The carefully vetted producers will be able to meet the demands and standards of UK and European buyers.
The seminars, crowded at the 2012 edition, will be expanded in 2013 under the guidance and direction of the Advisory Board (made up of the biggest UK retailers and brands) to produce a two tier programme aimed at addressing sourcing issues relevant to both senior and middle management. The topics covered will range from Regional Briefings, New technologies, Innovation in Sustainable Fabrics, Near shore versus Far East manufacturing, the Role of British Manufacturing to name a few.
The 3rd Future Fabrics Expo will show several hundred fabrics with a lower environmental impact from over 30 international mills, as well as video insights and further background research. The Sustainable Angle will also be part of the seminar series, presenting a session on sustainable textiles. For more information please visit www.fashionsvp.com
written by Charlotte Turner
In June, Amanda Johnston, Curator for the Sustainable Angle, was invited to run a two day Sustainable materials workshop for students at the Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering Department for Textiles in Ljubjliana, Slovenia:
“I liaised with the British Council and University on the presentation of a Sustainable Materials workshop that would enable the students participating to gain an overview of sustainable thinking for the fashion industry, with materials as the main focus, considering the potential cultivation and processing impacts of fibres. To highlight this, I introduced The Sustainable Angle organisation and its work presenting Future Fabric Expos in liaison with the Centre For Sustainable Fashion at London College of Fashion, showing a selection of sustainable fabrics from our collection.
The students selected fabrics that resonated with them as creators, recording their own sustainability considerations based upon The Sustainable Angle’s environmental criteria, and thinking about questions they would ask suppliers to source best practice materials. Considering the dominance of certain textile fibres, an interactive pie chart of the fibre provenance of their own clothes was compiled, as was done at the last Future Fabrics Expo.” (below)
Image by Myka Baum“The workshop was planned to coincide with a visit to Slovenia by London College of Fashion’s newly appointed Royal Patron, Sophie Countess of Wessex, and her husband Prince Edward, the Earl of Wessex. They were in Slovenia to take part in various events aimed at promoting British innovation, fashion, heritage and business. Both the Countess and Earl were extremely engaged with the students at the faculty, and appeared to thoroughly enjoy their visit. I led the Earl around the students work, and introduced him and the British Ambassador Andrew Page to varied examples of innovative fibre developments from our collection.
A big thank you to all the British Council representatives, staff and students at the Faculty, who enabled the smooth running of the workshop and Royal visit, and were all so welcoming!”
The Sustainable Angle’s Curator Amanda Johnston presenting HRH Sophie Countess of Wessex with her books “Fabric for Fashion” and “Fabric for Fashion: The Swatchbook”written by Charlotte Turner
Last month The Sustainable Angle was invited to take part in the Nike LAUNCH 2020 summit to work together in finding ‘game-changing’ technologies and innovations with the potential to bring about a more sustainable textiles industry.
So we have been asked to help with this search, and are inviting you to apply until July 15th for the LAUNCH Systems Challenge 2013 if you have developed an innovation(s) with potential to scale in 2 years, as well as game-changing early stage technologies and prototypes. Innovations can be business models, financial instruments, technologies and programs that accelerate research, education and capacity building.
“With this LAUNCH System Challenge 2013, LAUNCH seeks innovations that will transform the system of fabrics to one that advances equitable global economic growth, drives human prosperity and replenishes the planet’s resources.”
Find out more on the LAUNCH website or contact us at The Sustainable Angle.
written by Charlotte Turner
The Sustainable Angle was recently invited to attend The LAUCH 2020 summit hosted by Nike in Portland, USA, in partnership with NASA, The US Agency for International Development (USAID) and the US Department of State.
150 people were selected to attend the summit in order to share knowledge and collaborate ideas to help find ‘game-changing’ technologies and innovations with the potential to bring about a more sustainable textiles industry. After two days the Launch System Challenge 2013 was stated as seeking innovations in sustainable materials “that can have a major impact on people and the planet.”
Nike President & CEO, Mark Parker, was speaking at the LAUNCH 2020 Summit and stated “Innovation is most powerful when it’s activated by collaboration between unlikely partners, coupled with investment dollars, marketing know-how and determination. Now is the time for big, bold solutions. Incremental change won’t get us where we need to go fast enough or at a scale that makes a difference.”
[vimeo http://www.vimeo.com/64939206 w=600&h=337]
LAUNCH 2020 is particularly interested in innovations for materials which eliminate toxins in fabrics and which accelerate the development of low or positive environmental fabrics. Of particular significance to the initiative are innovations with the potential to scale-up in two years, as well as game-changing early stage technologies and prototypes. “Innovations can be business models, financial instruments, technologies and programs that accelerate research, education and capacity building.” – LAUNCH 2020.
Innovators, inventors, consultants, entrepreneurs, NGOs, research institutions, social enterprises and venture capitalists are invited to submit their ideas from now on until July 15, 2013.
The best ten proposals will be invited by LAUNCH 2020 partners to be presented in front of experts in the field, and the selected winners will receive support and financing in order to scale them up over the next two years.
LAUNCH 2013 Installation from nikeinc.comFor more information on the LAUNCH Systems Challenge 2013 visit http://www.launch.org/challenges/systems-2013
written by Charlotte Turner
We’re pleased to say we have contributed another in-depth article to the Ethical Fashion Forum Source online platform to help offer some of our latest research and advice on making your supply chain more sustainable, which we’ll also share at the next Future Fabrics Expo at the end of 2013. You can read our previous article on The Future of Fashion Fabrics here.
In this latest research we wanted to highlight how the supply chain is an interlinked series of decisions – starting right from the very raw materials our fabrics are made from and their cultivation and processing, to the finished garments we are wearing which have been assembled by labourers around the world. Understanding exactly what the supply chain really entails is key to being able to make it more environmentally, socially, and economically sustainable.
There have been some great steps made by international not for profit organisations, businesses, initiatives, and researchers, which can contribute to us measuring our impact and improving our supply chain process, and we have shared some of our favourites with you.
Additionally, from luxury materials made with extra long staple organic supima cotton, and performance fabrics incorporating post consumer coffee waste, soy plants or recycled fishing nets, processed with oxygen bleaching or airflow dyeing, to locally sourced wool which travels only 40 miles from sheep to finished fabrics, there are a huge range of options to reduce our environmental impact in our choice of materials, more of which you can read about in the full article.
Click here to read the full article on the Ethical Fashion Forum website.
Preview of in-depth articlewritten by Charlotte Turner
It’s been a quiet year so far for us on the blog as we have been busily planning our exciting upcoming projects for 2013, which will see us sharing our carefully curated sustainable fabrics with you both in and out of the UK.
Most exciting on the agenda is the third Future Fabrics Expo, which is due to take place in London at the end of 2013. The Expo will be presented in its usual format with a diverse selection of sustainable fabrics meeting our environmental criteria, and will showcase even more sustainable products and innovations.
To help build our sustainable fabrics collection we regularly visit Europe to talk with mills and dig deeper into the supply chain to bring you the most accurate and up to date information possible. Our latest research trip took us to Premiere Vision and Texworld in Paris, where we were pleased to see visible progress since our last visit in September.
Both large-scale global companies and much smaller textile mills with widely varying customer bases were receptive to speaking about sustainable and responsible practices, and we were really pleased to catch up with our mills regarding their new developments and progress, as well as meeting new companies from around the world. We are happy to say we will be joined by several exemplary mills and finishers in our next expo, and are looking forward to welcoming even more (please contact us regarding participation).
At the Paris shows it was terrific to see new developments across product groups, including man-made and regenerated fibres, natural fibres, processing and finishing.
By educating the industry and consumers about what state the textile industry is in, what is possible now and in the future, and by showcasing innovative developments and traditional solutions as we aim to do with the Future Fabrics Expo, we hope it will encourage people to start interrogating, questioning, researching, asking and expecting more from our textiles mills – and as we have seen there are many mills who are happy and capable to oblige.
Written by Charlotte Turner
The second Future Fabrics Expo was hosted on November 7-9 at the London College of Fashion with support from the Centre for Sustainable Fashion. It provided a physical showcase of roughly 650 fashion fabrics with a reduced environmental impact which looked at biodiversity, water, waste and energy impacts and benefits, as well as interactive information and videos. From the feedback we’ve received, it seems that designers and buyers are still struggling to know exactly how to incorporate sustainability more holistically into their businesses – sourcing fabrics more sustainably can be a great way to start, as well as being an area customers can directly experience the benefits from and understand.
The expo was visited by hundreds of fashion industry professionals and fashion students and we were pleased to welcome organisations including the Ethical Fashion Forum, TED, Redress, and the Royal College of Art, which will enable a wider audience to benefit from the expo content.
The expo was intended to inform and inspire fashion designers and buyers about the variety, availability and viability of sustainable fabrics, and is actively changing the outdated image of sustainable fabrics. The environmental criteria highlighted different aspects of sustainability that often get forgotten across a wide range of fibres, from cultivation, to processing, dyeing, weaving and finishing.
Fabrics on show ranged from recycled and regenerated performance fibres such as Newlife® recycled polyester (represented by C.L.A.S.S.) and recycled nylon from Hyosung, to organic, cellulosic and local fibres such as Crabyon®, Lenzing Tencel®, 100% European traceable linen from CLUB Masters of Linen, fully certified organic pima cotton from Swiss Organics, and luxury Peruvian alpaca. Processes including laser finishing for denim, innovative dyeing techniques and natural performance attributes were also explored.
We received some great feedback about the expo, and also suggestions for our next expo in 2013. We’d love to hear your thoughts so if you have any suggestions, ideas or feedback please get in touch.
View photos of the Future Fabrics Expo 2012 here
written by Charlotte Turner
You can take a look at The Sustainable Angle’s new article on the Ethical Fashion Forum Source Magazine about reducing the environmental impact of the fashion industry through innovation in textiles.
The Future of Fashion Fabrics – Reducing Environmental Impact | The Ethical Fashion Source
Environmental and social impacts of the fashion industry are growing, but there are many ways that you can not only reduce negative environmental impact, but also increase positive environmental and social benefits through informed choices of materials and intelligent design. Thinking critically about materials is just one option, which is not an isolated solution, but part of a considered and linked chain of positive choices along the supply chain.
According to the Oerlikon Textile Report; The Fibre Year 2009/10:
Therefore there is a massive need for fibre diversification to avoid natural resource depletion and support thriving eco-systems, in light of the overwhelming global use of such a small range of fibres despite growing availability of innovative fibres and fabrics.
In 2010 the global textile industry ‘experienced the most potent growth in 25 years’ (Oerlikon Textile Report), with an increase of 8.6% – with such a rapid growth of textiles on offer, it is imperative to make informed and responsible choices.
Read more at The Future of Fashion Fabrics – Reducing Environmental Impact | The Ethical Fashion Source
Written by Charlotte Turner
The Sustainable Angle is delighted to announce that we have been awarded the Positive Luxury ‘Mark of Positive Living’ for our commitment to reducing environmental impact in the fashion industry.
Represented by a Blue Butterfly, The Mark of Positive Living is awarded to best in class brands and companies that have a positive impact on people and the planet, displaying a drop down menu of a company’s positive social and environmental credentials when clicked on (visit our homepage to see the interactive Blue Butterfly).
Positive Luxury, founded by Diana Verde Nieto, was established in order to help consumers navigate the complex language of sustainability, and to reinforce the link between luxury and sustainability. This is very much in line with The Sustainable Angle’s view on sustainability within fashion, and is helping to show that you can lower your social and environmental impact without compromising on style.
In March 2011 the World Economic Forum nominated Diana as a Young Global Leader in recognition of her potential to influence and shape the future of the world, and we are thrilled to have joined so many prestigious companies in the journey to make luxury more positive.
Find out more about Positive Luxury at www.positiveluxury.com
Find out which brand sand companies have been awarded the Mark of Positive Living at www.positiveluxury.com/brands
Written by Charlotte Turner
This year The Sustainable Angle were lucky enough to be approached by360Fashion Mobile-Mags to create a mobile phone app guide especially for the Future Fabrics Expo.
The app is intended to reduce paper waste, while still providing a concise and portable overview of the Expo, and allowing a wide-reaching audience. 360Fashion Mobile-Mags’ generous support of the expo is aiming to address the issue of sustainability in the fashion and events industry, and The Sustainable Angle are really pleased to be able to extend the journey towards sustainability to communication tools.
Download the Future Fabrics Expo app powered by 360Fashion Mobile-Mags to keep track of event information, find out about the organisation, learn about what makes this expo sustainable, and stay up to date with our services.
Download the app by either scanning this QR code or typingmobilemags.360fashion.net/15050 in to your mobile phone browser.
Find out more about 360Fashion Mobile-Mags here
Written by Charlotte Turner
On 25th July the Ethical Fashion Forum hosted the Source Summit in London, to enable Source members from all stages of the supply chain to network and share knowledge, thoughts and ideas about the latest in social and environmental development in the fashion industry. The day was underpinned by an inspiring program of presentations from industry leaders including EFF Founding Director Clare Lissaman, and international researchers, educators and entrepreneurs. The event focused on discussing impact, visibility, education and systems, culminating in a series of breakout groups.
EFF Managing Director Tamsin Lejeune opened the event by stating that ‘in order to run a business effectively we have to run it sustainably’ which set the theme for the day, introducing speakers from international sustainable fashion brands.
Prama Bhardwaj from Mantis World gave an inspiring talk, discussing the triple bottom line: people, profit and planet. She gave some fantastic recommendations to achieve this, including her key piece of advice, to pick your battles. Prama’s recommendations to achieve triple bottom line success:
Alana James then discussed her research into mainstreaming sustainability in the fashion sector, having found that consumers rate clothing primarily by aesthetics, followed by materials which are felt to reflect quality and value, and lastly by price. Although 30% of consumers are said to have ethical intentions when shopping, only 3% actually carry this through in their shopping choices, which is something the high street has the power to influence.
Perhaps the most poignant presentation came from Liz Parker who discussed the importance of sustainability in the educational curriculum, in order to facilitate change throughout the industry. She argued that students should be thought of like consumers, as sustainability is values based and therefore can’t be forced upon people. For this reason encouraging critical thinking is vital.
Following the inspiring presentations, the breakout groups to further discuss specific themes resulted in a multitude of positive ideas for the future including:
Overall, a resounding conversation throughout the day was the fact that in an ideal world we wouldn’t talk about ‘ethical fashion’, just ‘fashion’. Sustainable marketing specialist Ceri Heathcote from Ethical Fashion Blog observed that ‘for sustainable change we need to change the way things are at an identity level – who we are, what we’re doing, and why we’re doing it.’ In order to do this, it’s up to each designer, buyer and fashion professional to evaluate what sustainability means to them.
Written by Charlotte Turner
The Sustainable Angle’s studio near Ladbroke Grove and Portobello Market in West London is now open for appointments.
Get in touch to arrange an appointment to view our comprehensive range of over 500 individually selected fabrics and trims with a reduced environmental impact, which adhere to our environmental criteria set out with the Centre for Sustainable Fashion related to biodiversity, water, waste and energy, and are sourced from over 50 international mills and suppliers.
The collection includes fabrics made with post-consumer coffee grounds, castor oil plant, recycled polyester suede, organic cotton lace macramé, recycled nylon and polyester lingerie and outer lace, closed-loop processed cellulosic fibres, and a wide range of GRS, GOTS, Oeko-Tex, Bluesign, Organic Exchange and Soil Association certified fabrics. Also on show are dyeing and finishing companies which utilise innovative natural and certified processes for use on fashion and home textiles.
The products on display are suitable for a wide range of price, minimum and lead-time specifications, and we are happy to work with you to discuss individual requirements, and recommend fabrics and production techniques which best reflect your company’s aesthetic and ethos.
Services available on discussion:
The studio is accessible by appointment only. Please e-mail info@thesustainableangle.org for more details and to book an appointment, or to discuss our services.
Written by Charlotte Turner
On 7th June, The Sustainable Angle had the pleasure of attending the third Puma Sustainable Design Collective session at the Puma Headquarters in central London. The event was attended by designers and sustainable fashion practitioners from Puma and beyond, and the Puma showroom itself showed evidence of ongoing progress regarding sustainable and ethical practice. Puma’s Sustainable Principles covered the walls, which had been developed by the evening’s host, Dr. Jonathan Chapman.
Dr. Chapman started the evening by recapping the previous sessions, where ‘Fashion & Sustainability’ co-author Kate Fletcher had spoken about designing for change, and the importance of transforming fashion products, fashion systems, and fashion design practice.
He poignantly observed how ‘people wait for the ‘paradigm shift’; a transitional moment when we awaken to see hidden associated impacts’ of our products. He observed that ‘we need faster and more immediate solutions’, and we need to ‘look at practical tangible tools’.
| Rebecca Earley presenting ‘Thinking Big & Making it Real…’ |
The core session was led by Rebecca Earley, director of TFRC and Senior Research Fellow at TED, Chelsea. Rebecca’s stimulating talk provided a comprehensive overview of recent developments in sustainable textiles and fashion, and drew attention to the growing number of innovative ‘new cellulosics’ as well as innovative printing, dyeing and production processes such as air-dyeing, polyester ‘re-surfacing’, and longer life denim.
She also discussed how our research in sustainable fashion is based on the estimations that decisions made in design are responsible for 80-90% of a product’s environmental impact, and that cross discipline work is essential for sustainability. By using TED’s TEN as a starting point, she presented ‘Thinking Big & Making it Real: 50 ways to make better stuff (or stuff better)…’ to illustrate how designers can prioritize what is most important to their customer, brand, ethos, product and development aims in order to reduce the impacts of their products right now, whilst also motivating longer term, broader change.
The overall message though which was supported by highlighting a range of fantastic new innovations, seemed to be that to succeed sustainable design has to be the most desirable, the most functional, the most beautiful and also affordable – therefore we need to look at what people want and see that there is a sustainability opportunity. Although there are many challenges on the route to success, Peter Diamandis from TED is confident, saying there’s a ‘case for optimism – we’ll invent, innovate, and create ways to solve the challenges that loom over us’.
Image source: http://tfrcconnections.blogspot.co.uk/
Written by Charlotte Turner
On 3rd May 2012 The Sustainable Angle attended the Copenhagen Fashion Summit organised by NICE to hear keynote speeches from international brands and organisations including Gucci, PPR, H&M, Honest By, Terraplana, WGSN, Greenpeace, The Sustainable Apparel Coalition, UN Global Compact, and Peter Ingwersen and the Youth Fashion Summit.
The day included the NICE Fashion Challenge runway, which showcased looks from Danish designers created using entirely sustainable fabrics, and was judged according to design, innovation and sustainability criteria. The contest was won by Susanne Rutzou, whose outfits were made from Newlife recycled polyester, eco silk, organic cotton, bamboo and alpaca.
The conference was opened by Crown Princess Mary of Denmark, who observed that conscious consumers play a pivotal role in developing sustainable business models, through raising demand to brands. Another key comment was from Greenpeace’s Kirsten Brodde, who highlighted the ‘power and influence of global consumers to turn sustainable fashion simply into fashion’.
The importance of customer communication was frequently discussed throughout the day, with Deloitte’s speaker commenting that consumer engagement on sustainable consumption can be positively affected through increased information sharing. H&M (who champion sustainability through their Conscious collection) have found that 23% of their customers are specifically looking for sustainable clothing, showing positive awareness on the high street, but further communication could raise this number. Deloitte’s extensive research has also shown that consumers currently feel social aspects are focused on far more than environmental issues in ‘sustainable clothing’ offers, indicating many opportunities for environmentally sustainable textiles. As PPR’s representative expressed, creative people are creative problem solvers, and designers are positively responding to meeting challenges and incorporating sustainability into design.
The Sustainable Apparel Coalition’s presentation by Rick Ridgeway stressed that a product’s sale price doesn’t capture the ‘externalised cost’ eg. how much water, fertilizer, waste etc. is involved. The SAC Index aims to give each product a score that includes the eco-impact not only as a footprint in a life-cycle perspective but including the whole bio-diversity and eco-system cost. SAC’s research has estimated that the global apparel & footwear industry has an externalised cost of a staggering $44 trillion – the SAC hopes the future will be: a t-shirt that harms the planet in its production will have a higher price tag reflecting these costs.
Leading up to the conference, the Youth Fashion Summit was hosted by Dilys Williams, leader of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion, a great supporter of The Sustainable Angle. The youth summit culminated in ‘demands’ from the represented fashion schools to improve the future of the fashion industry and society.
‘We demand a link between the society of makers and the society of wearers – rebuild trust’
Connie Hedegaard, the EU Commissioner for Climate Action, surmised that ‘we need to reinvent, redesign and reindustrialise our world’. She was presented with recommendations for sustainable fashion with specific focus on consumer engagement, in a bid to positively influence European legislation and business practice on sustainable fashion.
Rick Ridgeway from Patagonia summed up progress when he said that Patagonia have used 100% organic cotton since 1996, and back then a response from one customer was ‘I don’t eat my cotton jeans’. He believes we have moved a long way in a short space of time, but it still is a long process to get people to recognise it’s not just what they put in their bodies, but on their bodies.
Written by Charlotte Turner
In April 2012, the pioneers behind the MADE-BY Track and Trace system invited The Sustainable Angle to present the Future Fabrics Expo to MADE-BY’s partner brands, and to share our thoughts on the future of fashion fabrics. The event was designed to enable brands and organisations to share information and experiences from the supply chain, whilst having the opportunity to see, feel, and learn more about new sustainable fibres in the sustainable fibre showroom. We had the pleasure of presenting along with C.L.A.S.S. Eco-Hub, another pioneering organisation promoting sustainable fibre use in the fashion and interiors sectors.
Our Head Curator Amanda Johnston and Project Manager Charlotte Turner journeyed to Amsterdam to present the expo to a greatly receptive audience from the denim, performance, casual and formal fashion sectors, and were able to meet and hear from representatives from a wide range of brands.
We were invited to showcase a diverse range of our fabrics with a lower environmental impact, including natural and man-made fabrics using organic, recycled and upcycled fibres, and a range of low impact processing systems and newly developed innovative fibres. We received a lot of interest for many of our fabrics, and very positive feedback which will help us assist others in sourcing sustainable fabrics.
The day included thought provoking presentations from experts within the sustainable fashion industry on diverse topics including sustainable cotton label initiatives, wet processing, dyes and colour management at brand level, and regional topics including Solidaridad’s fair wage project in Bangladesh, Greenpeace’s Detox Campaign, and Solidaridad’s Cleaner Production Programme based in China.
Visit www.made-by.org for more information.
The Sustainable Angle have been invited to present the Future Fabrics Expo at the MADE-BY partner conference in Amsterdam on April 17th 2012. We will be discussing ideas on the future of fashion fabrics, and past and upcoming Future Fabrics Expo events. A fabric showroom displaying Future Fabrics Expo samples will allow MADE-BY partner brands to gain a tactile experience of the latest commercially available sustainable fabrics.
written by Charlotte Turner
The Sustainable Angle is a not for profit organisation which initiates and supports projects which contribute to minimising the environmental impact of industry and society.
Our project The Future Fabrics Expo focuses on the fashion industry and how its environmental impact can be lowered through innovation in the textile industry, and novel ideas to transform the fashion system and design practice.
On November 7th – 9th 2012, the second Future Fabrics Expo organised by The Sustainable Angle, will again be hosted by the London College of Fashion with the support of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion. The curated expo will showcase a diverse range of individually selected fabrics, products and ideas related to lowering the environmental impact of the fashion supply chain.
| Future Fabrics Expo 2011 |
More information about this event will follow soon, and you can visit our website to find out more about our event and other services.
Along with our website, The Sustainable Angle’s latest news and events can now be read and shared here, at www.thesustainableangle.blogspot.co.uk. You can also join us on Facebook, Twitter, and Vimeo.