RESILK: A Regenerated Silk Innovation by Mantero
Since 1902, Mantero has been producing and distributing beautiful silk and fine fabrics to several recognised fashion brands. Based in Como, Italy, Mantero has an integrated production where they design, colour, weave, print (both digitally and with silk screen techniques) and finish all their products internally.
Mantero’s sustainability activities and projects are inspired by three fundamental elements: responsible economic growth, social inclusion and environmental protection. All projects are inextricably linked to the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals 2030 Agenda, the action program signed by the governments of the 193 United Nations member countries.
At the company level, Mantero has obtained ISO 14001 certifications for the Environment, BS OHSAS 18001 for Health & Safety in the workplace, and SA 8000 for Social Responsibility. Only ZDHC processes are used. At the product level, Mantero is certified with the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and the Global Recycled Standard (GRS) for a specific selection of fabrics.
For over four years, Mantero has been developing RESILK®, a regenerated silk fabric made from silk production waste, that peculiarly resembles cashmere in its final form. RESILK® was designed with the goal to maintain and respect the intrinsic value of silk fabrics, their environment and the work behind their creation: from the cultivation of the mulberry and silkworm to the creation of yarns and fabrics. Recovering the waste generated from the silk production processes or surplus production, takes place entirely in Italy in partnership with Marchi & Fildi. The variation in appearance and any irregularities of the fabric are characteristic, as pre-consumer deadstock was selected and purified by hand.
RESILK® is available in a wide range of weaves, including for the home sector, a yarn-dyed jacquard version, dyed stoles, screen-printed and digital printed fabrics created in partnership with Ecotec® by Marchi & Fildi.
Discover Mantero’s RESILK® collection on our Future Fabrics Virtual Expo
Tune in to our conversation with Lucia Mantero, Head of Product Development of Mantero, on 2nd July 2020, 12:00-12:20 PM BST on Instagram LIVE during Future Fabrics VIRTUAL Expo LIVE week. For more events, REGISTER HERE.
Mantero Q&A:
1. Can you tell us about your newest sustainable innovation RESILK® and how it plays a part in the circular economy?
Mantero: In the search for product perfection, the process also comes with careful selection, compliance with agreements and meeting luxury market needs. The downside is that this generates a lot of waste, becoming a source of pollution. While there is no complete comprehensive data around the amount of silk waste generated by the Como production district, we think it is reasonable to assume that every year more than 100 tons of dyed or printed silk becomes waste. For luxury segment productions, this waste is often destroyed or even burned in incinerators which have a clear environmental impact. At Mantero we take care in being sustainable, so we felt this waste in the industry was an appalling waste of a precious resource.
The RESILK® Project was specially created to support objective no.12 in the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development – RESPONSIBLE CONSUMPTION AND PRODUCTION. The idea was to recover the large amount of waste generated by the silk production processes, second-class fabrics and the surplus production, and transform it into a new material.
RESILK® is the result of four years of research, born out of a conscious approach to materials, and our drive to lead the way when it comes to transforming waste into a new fabric. Since 2015, Mantero has included the concept of circular economy in its SUSTAINABILITY programme, where the material used can only be SILK.
2. How do you collect the discarded silk materials and how are they turned into this unique new fibre?
M: First, Mantero silk fabrics are grouped by homogeneous classes based on yarn treatment and the processing during weaving and finishing. Then the fabrics are cut and shredded with appropriate machines to create silk flakes. Silk flakes are spun again to create a regenerated pure silk yarn, RESILK®, certified under the Global Recycled Standard.
This yarn is then woven, dyed and printed to create 100% silk fabrics with highly innovative content, which are distinguishable from the original material. The fabrics are: 1. technically compliant with the market demands; 2. aesthetically compliant with fashion needs; 3. cost-sustainable; 4. derived from recycling.
3. We understand you offer a unique custom creative process where designers work in consultation with Mantero to achieve a unique bespoke material. Can you tell us more about this process?
M: Customisation is part of our DNA in the creation process. We offer the same process for RESILK®, working closely with our clients to create a fabric that fits brand characteristics and collection requirements – starting from the same yarn. We have already developed some woven fabrics and prints samples as a point of departure in the development we do closely with brand creative team.
4. How can fashion have a positive impact on nature and communities?
M: Due to fashion’s social exposure, being conscious and sustainable in fashion production offers a strong positive message for many. Respecting our environment and human beings must be at the centre of what we do – and fashion can help to underline values and needs.
5. What are your goals and plans moving forward?
M: For us, RESILK® confirms that you can also create “cool” products with an upcycled material — that is an incredible change from what we traditionally define as “luxury” principles! There can be many evolutions and possibilities of the yarn for different products and uses, such as home accessories. We are actively studying new fabrics based on RESILK®.
Discover more about Mantero here
Register for Future Fabrics Virtual Expo LIVE here
